Igor gets the Blues, The FrankenLab Reso Project.

[Simon Barden]

Far too powerful for a guitar pre-amp. Likely to blow components on your amp. That's more for if you install a small on-guitar speaker.

But there are some possible other Artec products; the MB-1 or MB-2 again offer a board that accepts magnetic and piezo inputs. http://artecsound.com/acou/etc.htm

[nitroburner1000]

Far too powerful for a guitar pre-amp. Likely to blow components on your amp. That's more for if you install a small on-guitar speaker.

But there are some possible other Artec products; the MB-1 or MB-2 again offer a board that accepts magnetic and piezo inputs. http://artecsound.com/acou/etc.htm

Cheers mate

[FrankenWashie]

Cheers mate

After seeing Corksniffer's similar issues and the centrality issue he'd encountered I went back to mine to re-evaluate.



I'm happy that I can get the cone in the center. I've used the same method of marking center as corksniffer did, but I don't have the play in the neck socket that he did, mine is where it is with no wiggle.
You can see (just) from the photo that the cover is off set to that laser marker and therefore the bridge.
But what I've also noted on my actual Chobro is that this seems common.


Note the differing gap either side of the strings?

This will play on my OCD something fierce but I'm forced to concede that there is Sweet Franken All that I can actually do about this, I'm just going to have to live with it and focus on the bits I can sort out.


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[cork sniffer]

That's about the same cover offset as mine.
I've engaged a psychologist to help with my up coming OCD.

[Guvna19]

holy mo, major laser, spent all my money on my O'l CD

[FrankenWashie]

So because the cone cover is causing OCD I decided to do some cleaning up of my control cover recess and open out the very bumpy cavity under it.

It started like this:


I used my palm router free hand (not recommended! Properly jig or hold all power cutting tools!) to get to this:



The palm router doesn't have enough depth to get all the way down, it was then very careful chisel, rasp and knife work to get down to this:



Note that this is not required, I'm just doing it because I can and I had thought to replace the existing loom with some CTS pots.
One warning though, not sure what the body wood is but it is very fibrous and stringy, it is a bugger to work with unless you have very sharp chisels and even then it pulls and flakes out very easily. Proceed with caution!


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[Simon Barden]

I would suggest that you simply notch the wooden bridge, so that the strings stay the same distance apart. I know the Ozark brand resonators have notches in their wooden bridges.

[cork sniffer]

I would suggest that you simply notch the wooden bridge, so that the strings stay the same distance apart. I know the Ozark brand resonators have notches in their wooden bridges.

What do you mean Simon, cutting six notches to receive six strings in the wooden bridge?
Not having resonator experience I would expect that as normal.
Now to inspect my wife's Gretsch Honey Dipper for bridge notches.

[cork sniffer]

I decided to do some cleaning up of my control cover recess and open out the very bumpy cavity under it.

Surprised you did this so soon when the on board pre-amp fitment is still being explored.

[cork sniffer]

Now to inspect my wife's Gretsch Honey Dipper for bridge notches.

Gretsch notched bridge.