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Thread: Simon B's Custom ES-1/ES330 style build

  1. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post

    There is a protective layer of plastic film under the clamp - the same film I found out earlier that didn't adhere to superglue.
    Until of course you don't want it to...and then it's like shite to a blanket.
    Well it would be if I was doing it.
    Looks like another GOTM in the wings.

    cheers, Mark.

  2. #82
    that is looking really good mate. The quality of wood in these guitars is a cut above eh

  3. #83
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    "a not quite perfect circle"
    Sounds like a tribute band to a Maynard Keenan side project.

    Very nice work, even with the apparent dust there is a glorious lustre to that body. Really looking forward to the headstock treatment photos. If you hear a "YOINK" its just the FrankenLab stealing ideas!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


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  5. #84
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Didn't quite work. The design is too small for the pattered abalone I was using and the black bits in it confused the design so it wasn't clear what it said. I also routed slightly too deep for the full plan to work. So I've ordered some much lighter pearl sheets. At least I know what I'm doing now, so it won't take long to get another couple of inlays sorted when they arrive. Also going to have a go at doing the outer circle separately to the letters this time. I'll practice on the old abalone sheet over the weekend.

    See my bass thread for a picture and more description.

    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...l=1#post162046

  6. #85
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Well, I think I've finally had more luck with the headstock logo inlay (after a lot of failed attempts). Ring and letters all done separately. A 'white abalone' ring and 'white pearl' letters (though you can't tell that from the picture). Looking nice and clear even with black superglue smeared on top. Also the letters are raised up enough this time so I can paint the headstock face with a few coats of black and sand back slightly to leave things level. This black superglue takes a long time to dry, so I can put the neck away for a couple of days.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Well, I think I've finally had more luck with the headstock logo inlay (after a lot of failed attempts). Ring and letters all done separately. A 'white abalone' ring and 'white pearl' letters (though you can't tell that from the picture). Looking nice and clear even with black superglue smeared on top. Also the letters are raised up enough this time so I can paint the headstock face with a few coats of black and sand back slightly to leave things level. This black superglue takes a long time to dry, so I can put the neck away for a couple of days.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	330 inlay small.jpg 
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    Awesome! Can't wait to see the finished head stock.

    Derek.

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

  8. #87

  9. #88
    Initially, I had this model which I purchased from a company in Utah, USA. I also loved the lightweight quality to it. But when I found a section of binding around the neck broken.......and those 'suspect' Chinese tuning machines, I boxed it up and gave it a ride back to Beijing. So, how is it going with this DIY? I feel you'll appreciate how receptive the wood is to stain. I wanted desperately to keep my Ric copy simple by staining, but after working on it, I had to hide the modifications to the bridge and the humbucker cavities. P.S. The neck for my guitar, if set as is, would have been crooked by at least 7 - 8 degrees right. While trimming the neck-to-body edge, I cut the tuner head at an angle to replicate the Rickenbacker. Good luck, Simon 'ol boy.

  10. #89
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Well, might as well post a few pictures.

    Here's the body. It's had several sand downs and all the dips and glossy spots had gone at the last sand. Now had a couple more coats of Tru Oil over the top of that, so it's now going to wait for the neck to be finished so I can glue that on. It's a bit dusty I know, but that all comes off when it's rubbed down.

    Attachment 25160

    Well I've stuck the veneer on the headstock, trimmed it down, patched up a couple of areas where the veneer broke off at the corners, routed out a circle for the inlay to fit in, and stuck it down with black superglue. A brief wobble with the router gave a not quite perfect circle, but it really doesn't matter as any gaps just get filled in.

    Attachment 25162Attachment 25163

    There is a protective layer of plastic film under the clamp - the same film I found out earlier that didn't adhere to superglue.

    The clamp is now off and the top of the inlay is now covered in black superglue. I've done the same to the headstock of the ESB-4 bass. It seemed sensible to do them both at the same time.

    Because the inlay is stuck to a plastic backing, I drilled holes through the backing in places so that the superglue oozed through the holes (and it did), so should lock the whole inlay piece in place.

    Now I just need to wait for the glue to dry hard, then can sand most of it off the top, paint the headstock black with a few coats of black paint, then sand everything flat, hopefully with the inlay design shining through. A bit of gold writing on the headstock, some clear coats, and the neck should all be good to go and stick on the body.

    Oh, and I need to stick the new bone nut on before I forget!
    thats a real nice bit of staining there Simon you've done that before nice work fella im liking the headstock logo !!

  11. #90
    Member CascadiaGuitarGeek's Avatar
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    Nice work on the custom inlay Simon. This is shaping up to be quite the nice looking project. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

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