Are you planning to front or rear mount the speaker? If rear, then remember that those rear panels need to be removable if you ever want to swap the speaker, or get to it for some bolt tightening. So screw them. but don;t glue them. If front mounting, then whatever grille you fit needs to be removable as well.
A friend is making me a small bass cab for a 10" speaker I provided for the build (300W Celestion with a neo magnet) as I gave him some speakers and bits. He's bringing it over tomorrow. for some testing and tuning.
That speaker is front mounted using 5mm barrel headed hex bolts and T-nuts for a fixed nut installation. As it's a sealed tuned port design, it had to be front mounted. I'll be making a metal grille for the front
It may depend on the speaker as to what bolt size fits best, but Celestion seem to use 5mm in all their suggested cab construction details, and although 6mm can be made to fit with a very small amount of filing, 6mm T-nuts then get very close to the edge of the circular cut-out.
The bass amp I have is a small TC BH250 Mk 1. The speaker is a 4 ohm one so I can get the full 250W from the amp if I ever want to. It's only really designed for home use and it won't have a huge amount of bass end, and above around 60W the ports are probably going to chuff quite loudly.
You may notice that the top-mounted handle has had the corners cut away, so the TC's feet sit in the cut-outs. The handle is around 6mm thick in the centre of the cut-outs and this is enough to stop the lightweight amp from moving under vibration, the weight of the speaker cable and the instrument cable. There were various other methods in the pipeline to stop the amp moving but still leave it easily removable, such as adding an extra plywood surround on the top of the cab that the amp sat in, but in the end this was the simplest method.
It's only really designed for home use and it won't have a huge amount of bass end, and above around 60W the ports are probably going to chuff quite loudly.
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