MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build

[JohnH]

Another noob question for the forum hive-mind, but if I'm finishing the maple neck in tru-oil, do I also use the TO on the fretboard? Or should I use something else?

[OliSam]

Another noob question for the forum hive-mind, but if I'm finishing the maple neck in tru-oil, do I also use the TO on the fretboard? Or should I use something else?

Hi John.
I used Tung Oil on my maple neck and fretboard and it feels just great!
I’m really enjoying your build!

Q. What’s the trick to cutting a perfect neck pocket?


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[JohnH]

Hi John.
I used Tung Oil on my maple neck and fretboard and it feels just great!
I’m really enjoying your build!

Q. What’s the trick to cutting a perfect neck pocket?

Thanks Oli! I'd done some searching, but could never figure out if people who oiled their necks were also oiling their fretboards. I just checked out your tele - looks great!

As for the neck pocket, I watched this great youtube video a while back where this guy had to route a cavity for a pre-made neck. I can't find it again though, but can give you the rundown.

Basically you do the following:

Grab a bit of MDF or plywood to make a template with. The guy on the video used 12 or 15mm MDF, but I had some ply that was about the same thickness and about 20 x 30cm so I used that.

Draw a centreline on your template material, and then find the centreline of the neck. Line the neck up with your centreline on your template and clamp it down. Then grab two bits of straight timber and clamp these either side of the neck. If you clamp them lightly and then give them a tap with a rubber mallet so they're really tight up against the neck, then finish clamping them down then you'll get a really snug fit.

Get a sharp pencil and trace the curve of end of the neck onto your template material. Then you can unclamp and remove the neck from between the timber, grab a coping saw and cut out the shape of the neck - staying just inside the two pieces of timber and around the curve of the line you drew (I used a small drill bit to punch a hole in one of the corners of the neck curve to make it a bit easier to get the saw in and around).

Then get a file and some sandpaper and file and sand your way back to the line, being as careful as you can to make sure it's straight/square/etc.

It didn't take very long, and worked really well. I tested the neck in the template to make sure it fit well, and then lined my template up with the centreline on the body and clamped it down. There was a lot of measuring to make sure the neck cavity would be in the right spot and to make sure it was centred, but seemed to work. I guess I won't know for certain until the bridge comes in the mail and I can actually string it up.