Joes Custom IB-1 Kit

[Joe3334]

Good news! But also bad news.... I successfully applied my colour coat maybe 5 days ago and I attempted to apply the clear coat 3 hours ago. After waiting a while for it to dry (touch dry) I checked on it and there were runs.... lots.... of runs..... anyway it's all generally on the back of the body near the horns and screw holes for the neck. I guess the only way to fix this is to sand the runs down and spray clear just over the sanded areas? Unless someone has a trick up their sleeve that they'd be willing to share with me I will take some pics tomorrow afternoon and add to post.

[Simon Barden]

Not a lot you can do apart from sand down the runs. But give the paint time to dry well. The run area is thicker so takes longer to dry than a normal coat. The middle of the run can still be soft when the surface feels hard. If you try to rub it down too soon, you'll pull out all that soft centre, which will also take some of the paint underneath it with it (the clear's got solvents in which will soften the paint underneath until all the solvent has evaporated away). So I'd wait a day, or couple of days if the runs are thick) before sanding back.

Use a sanding block if on a flat surface, so you just take as much of the run off as you can without taking the rest of the clear off. Alternatively, you can try scraping the run off with a razor blade or other sharp blade using this method (from a StewMac drop fill repair video). I've used it and it works well.

[Joe3334]

Could anybody tell me the recommended amount of clear coats that are to be applied to the body? I am using spray cans, thanks in advance.

[Sonic Mountain]

Its a bit of a how long is a piece of string question. You want enough on there that you can safely cut it back and polish it. I'd be using most of a 350g can.

You really need to do it in stages, 3 very light coats with 5 or 10 minutes in between then let that dry hard - usually 5-7 days, lightly sand back and repeat. The more patient you are the better it will end up - its very tempting to lay down heavy coats, but its a pain to get it to cure properly like that and you are more likely to end up with runs and sags. Once you have a decent layer of clear you need to cut it back with 1500-2000 grit using a firm, flat sanding block. Then use some cutting compound and if possible and electric buffer, followed by polish and swirl remover ideally. You can do it by hand and you can skip the cutting compound step if you use no.2 cut and polish - but I think you get a better result if you work your way up through the various polishes - it can get pricey though.

With the runs you mention above, I think it was Phrozin mentioned somewhere on here that if you apply a bit of filler over the top before blocking back you'll avoid sanding down the surrounding surfaces and causing ripples - that seems like a good idea, but I've never tried it.

[Joe3334]

I did apply 5 coats, wet sanded and buffed by hand and some areas turned out real thick, smooth and super shiny while other areas turned out very matte looking and not so smooth. I believe I wet sanded far too much in these areas so I'm going to wet sand very lightly just to remove compound and then clear coat again.

[Joe3334]

Quick pic of the result of my wet sanding, sorry about bad quality, bedroom light and had to resize.

[Joe3334]

Will try buffing tonight, if successful i will upload pics

[Joe3334]

Back to square one.

After wet sanding, buffing, and polishing, I've decided to start all over again... there were too many flaws in the finish e.g dints, bulges from poorly sanded filler underneath the paint, and unfilled pores. This build will be put on hiatus until 2018. I'm pretty annoyed with myself for letting this happen. That's it I guess....

[Andyxlh]

Back to square one.

After wet sanding, buffing, and polishing, I've decided to start all over again... there were too many flaws in the finish e.g dints, bulges from poorly sanded filler underneath the paint, and unfilled pores. This build will be put on hiatus until 2018. I'm pretty annoyed with myself for letting this happen. That's it I guess....

Sorry to hear it. Been there! But be patient and you WILL get a good result. The key is to prep the surfaces well and put lots of thin coats on the clear. Get the clear nice and thick, but do it slowly. I tend to do a few coats, couple of days to dry, a light sand with 800 or 1200 dry, wipe off with wax remover, then a few more. Also give it loads of time to cure before you cut it back and polish, I give poly clear weeks and weeks. I like the poly clear as it is nice and hard and handles belt rash and other abuse well I think.

[Joe3334]

You use rattle cans for the clearcoat? Right?