Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 89

Thread: JM 1 Custom Kit

  1. #31
    You reckon I should go over the whole body or just the runs and specks? There are only 3 or 4 areas? I have enough spray for another 2 coats I think

  2. #32
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    6,631
    Would always suggest a light wet sand across all surfaces as that helps the next coat attach rather than just focus on small problem areas that may stand out after applying a fresh coat.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  3. #33
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
    Posts
    530
    what Waz said
    My facebook

    112 guitars done so far still going, 30 Starts, 24 Teles, 20 Les Pauls, 9 SGs, 8 Hollow Body, 21 Super Strats

  4. #34
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_8423.JPG 
Views:	337 
Size:	202.9 KB 
ID:	22317

    Well I got the colour coats on and was happy enough. Put the lacquer on and the first coat was fine but after the 2nd I noticed patches like this. Pot life of the lacquer was 8 hours so couldn't do anymore. It's still curing in a cupboard. I'm just hoping a light wet sanding and polish takes some of it out. Any other advice?

  5. #35
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    What lacquer are you using? If you used nitro for the blue, then I'm assuming clear nitro for the lacquer?

  6. #36
    Yeah, 2k spray max clear gloss.

  7. #37
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    Which may be the reason, as that (to the best of my knowledge) isn't a nitro lacquer but an acrylic one. Whilst some paint types are reasonably compatible with others, I'd always promote sticking to using the same paint type throughout to avoid reactions. I'm no expert here, but I do know that some paint type combinations just don't work. And it may even be down to different manufacturers products as to what they put in each can. It only takes one component in the paint or solvent to react and that's the finish ruined.

    I believe you can spray nitro over a fully cured poly finish, but probably not the other way round.

  8. #38
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld.
    Posts
    3,261
    Ugh. Unfortunately as Simon said, this is the result of incompatible paint types. You need to use the same products for primer, base and top coats.

    I would suggest giving it a really good sand back once its dry, and then leaving it a week or so for all the solvent to dry out. You might then be able to use the original primer to seal over and start again.

    Real bugger, but you're not the first to make that mistake.

  9. #39
    A real bugger is correct. The primer and gloss are from the same company. The colour is rothko and frost. Definitely the gloss lacquer and colour are both nitro but as simon says i guess it could be some component in either that has reacted. It is only on 2 patches, the rest looks awesome. the primer and the lacquer both have hardener and only had an 8 hour pot life so sanding back and redoing will involve more money 😢 Best to let it sit for a week before sanding?
    My only question is do u guys think it was definitely not from the first coat being too dry?

    Also thanks for helping a noob, I will have to be more careful picking sprays in future

  10. #40
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld.
    Posts
    3,261
    It is interesting that it has only happened in a couple of spots. Is there any chance there could have been some kind of solvent or oil in those areas?

    Otherwise, this can also happen if the previous coat was too thick. The top can feel dry and hard, but underneath hasn't cured properly, so painting over again, even with the same kind of paint, will re-activate the semi dried out bit and make it crinkle.

    Most paint is made up of primarily 3 ingredients - the pigment for colour, the binder for making it stick, and the solvent for keeping it liquid until its applied and then drying out (or out gassing) to leave the finish. So if the solvent gets on a semi dry bit of the paint, it tries to dissolve it into a liquid again.

    I would sand the top off just those two areas and then leave it for a week to out gas. You want to make sure as much of the solvent (in the paint itself) has dried before doing anything. If you've used compatible paints and its just a case of the lower coat not drying out fully, you should be fine to just do another couple of coats on top and sand back to fix it. If its because of a reaction between incompatible paints (usually the solvents don't like each other) You would be best to sand until all evidence is removed, because. sometimes even the slightest residue will cause another reaction.

    I know its super annoying and its happened to me plenty of times (I once had an entire car crinkle up because I bought the wrong top coat) but its not the end of the world and it is fixable.

    Overall patience is the key. The longer you leave it between coats the better really. Most paints specify something like within 1 hour or after 24, if I'm past the initial coating, I try and leave it a week.

    I understand the frustration - I made a silly mistake on mine and ruined about 2 weeks of drying time.

Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •