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Thread: Marcel's RCM-4F (PBG build #3)

  1. #41
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I agree with Marcel. That poly will have soaked in to a reasonable depth.

    If you use a poly lacquer dark tinted spray, (or another paint type suitable for spraying on poly), you could do a sunburst so that the lighter areas are mainly covered up and are a lot darker. In the photos, the main areas you can see the lighter colours are the upper horn and upper rear bout, so good locations for hiding/disguising with a burst.

  2. #42
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    fair enough Marcel/Simon, I didn't think about how much the poly would have soaked in the veneer.
    Simon's suggestion of a burst could work.
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  3. #43
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Hmmm...

    Might have to get the tin of Black out and practice with my spray technique first..

  4. #44
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Doesn't need to be black, but it does depend on what dark but transparent lacquer is available to you.

  5. #45
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    The Black would be a tin of automotive gloss that I found in my shed while I was looking for something else (my old vacuum tube data books)... Black is purely for practice.

    Dark lacquer I would have to buy or mix up. Stocks on hand are all clear nil tint types with the majority also being rattle cans...

  6. #46
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hey Marcel, if you did Wok's idea of wet sanding you will get to a point where there may be enough of the flame poking through to re-stain and there will be other parts where the poly has soaked in much deeper. It could end up like a reverse grain pop where the 2nd stain coat would come up darker and also help tie it all together.
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  7. #47
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Had a thought, but I'm unsure...

    I know the ratios of the primary dyes I used in the original water based stain mix. If I make up another stain mix but use the water based Poly instead of straight water then I should have a Purple Poly that I can use to rebuild my burst. The centre of the body is about the right colour so that would only need clear Poly, however the tinted stuff should/could/might darken the edges without loosing much of the flame. Keep doing coats until it is/was dark enough..

    Comments anyone ??

  8. #48
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Proof test it on some scrap and see what happens Marcel, it is an interesting thought and it may work the way you think. Or, it might not.
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  9. #49
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    It may work as per FW scrap wood test advisable

    https://www.hunker.com/12544172/how-...o-polyurethane


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  10. #50
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link Andrew, but all I got was a few images and nil text.

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