Michael's 1st build HB-4S

[MichaelC]

Hi All
So I first spent days staring at the thing eventually getting a plan.
I am thinking the following:
Replace all the plastic bits with wood and metal ones (PU surrounds, control strip, truss rod cover), and replace the nut. I may upgrade the hardware later but not too keen to go over the top here as it is the first build after all.
I plan to finish with Tru oil, but also would like to apply a hint of darker wood stain.

1. Getting to the mock build was challenging. I had difficulty in getting the centre line established as the veneer is off centre (to the body measurement) and the neck pocket appeared off centre to the body as the thickness of the wood either side to the neck pocket is not even. Then I got serious and used a ruler. It got easier from there.

2. The neck pocket was too small as apposed to the neck heel too large
Examined the neck heel and sanded it level on both sides to line up with the binding making sure I kept the line with the widening as it goes down the neck. Tackled the neck pocket and then over sanded. – ha! (Didn’t check the depth of the neck into the body). Saw this when I finally did the mock build. Now glued veneer to one side of the neck pocket and will re sand refit, and recheck.
I am happy with the neck angle though, enough movement in the saddle to adjust to optimum string height. Will have to recheck the alignment will pup cavities.

[Simon Barden]

A shame you've got a few issues with the kit, but you seem to have a handle on it. Very nice pattern on the veneer.

I can see why you want to darken the wood, you just need to be careful not to over-darken it so you loose the full spalt effect. So I'd suggest using a quite diluted stain, and go for more applications and slowly build it up rather than trying to do it in one go and then get too dark a result.

As the veneer top is very thin, and getting it too damp can cause it to become unstuck in places, I'd try and use a non-water based stain. Anything you can dilute with turps, methylated or white spirit should be fine.

[MichaelC]

Thanks Simon, Do you suggest I use a darker grain filler, sanding sealer first before I stain?

[Simon Barden]

Maple is a closed-grain wood, so doesn't need a pore-filler and it won't take much colour from a coloured wood filler if you do apply it. It would also require sanding back, and with these thin veneers, sand-through is easy to do. A sanding sealer would tend to inhibit stain take-up, so I'd avoid that as well.

A dark stain, applied, then mainly all wiped off again with whatever you are using to thin the stain, can help pop the grain on flame or quilted maple, but on spalted maple, you've normally already got enough definition in the grain not to warrant any further treatment, so most builds here have been left almost natural.

The first thing to do is check for any glue spots on the veneer. Use turpentine, methylated spirit ('metho' in Aus speak) or white spirit on a rag and dampen the veneer. The veneer will darken, but any residual glue marks will come up as light areas. Before you do any staining, you need to get this glue off. Use a proprietary glue remover to do this. 'Goof Off' is a good one available in both Aus and the UK and works well, but there are other glue removers out there - and you can only use what's available to you! The damped veneer will also indicate what the colour of the veneer will be with a clear finish applied. It may be dark enough not to require further staining. Tru Oil will give a darker look, and also apply a slight amber tint of its own.

[MichaelC]

Simon this is extremely valuable and helpful, thank you. It settles much of my confusion around the various techniques of prep, staining, what to apply and how etc to a spalted vaneer.

[Simon Barden]

The basswood body is also a closed-pore wood, but being a ply, the outer ply with the figured basswood skin is a bit thicker than the veneer, so will take some light sanding, but you don't want to sand it with too coarse or too fine a paper. The veneer will take a very light 'drag' sand with a fine grit paper, just a light scrape to remove any loose fibres. What you want to avoid is using too coarse a paper that will leave marks in the surface, or too fine a paper that 'polishes' the surface which helps prevent the uptake of any stain you apply. If you are spray painting the rest of the body, then you can go with finer grits, but if staining and then applying Tru Oil all over, I'd keep between 120 and below 300. The finer grits will come in useful once you've applied enough Tru Oil to start levelling the finish before a final polish.

[MichaelC]

Excellent stuff thanks again- yes I noticed the polished effect when I started with a 400 grit ( just to get a feel of it). Planning to stain the body a little darker brown than the top (and that just to create a slightly "worn in" look and feel).

[FrankenWashie]

Excellent stuff thanks again- yes I noticed the polished effect when I started with a 400 grit ( just to get a feel of it). Planning to stain the body a little darker brown than the top (and that just to create a slightly "worn in" look and feel).

Sounds like a great plan Michael, are you going for that very authentic hofner look?

[JB RETRO]

I personally would not add any stain . As Simon said the TO will make it slightly darker anyway, and I think that grain looks awesome as it is. Just my 2 bobs. I'm sure it will look great either way.

[andrewdosborne]

Agree with previous comments I'd also go pure TO


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