Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 68

Thread: First build - TL1 Ian Rodness

  1. #31
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Glebe, NSW
    Posts
    5,666
    Quote Originally Posted by ianrodness View Post
    I do luckily have a router. Having to route the body of a guitar in my first build - holy shit!!!! But how do I now secure the bridge to the body?? there's no wood underneath 2 of the screw holes?
    We'll get you through it mate, it could be worse. I elected to strip the fretboard and reshape the neck tenon of my first build, having not done any form of wood work since highschool.

    The good part about it, is you can make up a template in 6mm or 9mm MDF based on your existing routed cavity. You then adjust that template, to suit the actual pickup, and then you can rout both the required adjustments at the same time.

    What you will need to get though is a router bit with a guide bearing above the cutter head. Probably a 1/2" or 3/8" one would give you a nice fit to the curves of the cavity.

    EDIT: The screws should locate into threads on the PUP to give you height adjustment relative to the strings I would assume? Or am i wrong in saying that for the TL Kits? TL Veterans, Assemble! Your wisdom required!
    Last edited by FrankenWashie; 14-07-2017 at 08:47 AM.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  2. #32
    Have you checked your scale length? Before you start modifying/routing the cavity it's best to clamp the neck in place and check your scale measurements, then you can be certain where the bridge needs to sit and adjust if/as needed.
    Scott.

  3. #33
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Ajax, ontario
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    EDIT: The screws should locate into threads on the PUP to give you height adjustment relative to the strings I would assume? Or am i wrong in saying that for the TL Kits? TL Veterans, Assemble! Your wisdom required!
    Yes...realized this morning that this was the case....whew.

  4. #34
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    As a rough guide, the bridge plate normally sits about 2-3mm back from the edge of the pickguard. It doesn't butt right up to it (look at pictures of Fender Teles for guidance), though the control plate does sit right against the pickguard in its semi-circular cut-out.

    The bridge plate only has the four mounting screws at the rear of the plate; the three around the cut-out are just pick-up mounting holes, so there shouldn't be any wood underneath them.

    But you may need to enlarge the pickup rout a bit. Even Fender routs can be on the small side if you fit an aftermarket pickup with a slightly larger footprint. As people have said, a Dremel type tool with a drum-sanding bit if handy here and will save using a router. Just mark with pencil where the front edge of the bridge plate is, so that you don't enlarge beyond the front edge and leave a visible gap.

  5. #35
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Ajax, ontario
    Posts
    28
    thanks for the input Simon - much appreciated! This is the mock up - I'm kind digging this colour too. More sanding, then I'll start the route.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mock up.jpg 
Views:	410 
Size:	513.9 KB 
ID:	20763

  6. #36
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    6,631
    As Weirdy said the scale length is most important bit to get right. Once that has been established you will know if the Bridge PUP rout needs work.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  7. #37
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Ajax, ontario
    Posts
    28
    so here's the route doneClick image for larger version. 

Name:	with route.jpg 
Views:	392 
Size:	399.2 KB 
ID:	20799 - not as difficult as I imagined. P/U's are fitting nicely now. As far as scale length.....I've measured from the nut to 12th fret = 12 11/16 inches, so measured the same from the 12th to the saddle - lots of play in the saddles, so just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track. I know the scale length of a tele is 25.5, and 2 x 12 11/16 is a bit longer, but this should be fine, right?

  8. #38
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Woonona by the sea
    Posts
    2,795
    Should be good Ian.

    FWIW I normally set the bridge position with the high E saddle about 80% fully extended and on a F type guitar the saddles move further back from there so the E6 is around 6mm closer to the back than the E1 so you have plenty to work with

  9. #39
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    A Dave, said the top E saddle will be the one furthest forward, so if you set the top E saddle to around 80% (or say with 5mm of thread still showing), and measure from the top E nut slot (board side) to the top E saddle with double the nut to 12th fret distance, you should be fine for position and saddle adjustment. It's then just a question of getting the middle of the bridge on the neck centre line.

  10. #40
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Ajax, ontario
    Posts
    28
    so I did this last night.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	neck.jpg 
Views:	415 
Size:	409.7 KB 
ID:	21341
    Should I worry about it?

Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •