First Build LP1-SP

[nitroburner1000]

Steel wool is truly evil stuff and can quite often do more harm than good.

Agreed, I only use steel wool on metal, on wood it gunks up the grain.

[chrissyinbkk]

I've learnt my lesson, bought some micromesh pads like Frankie suggested, what beats me is Wudtone in their instructions say fine wire wool between coats, this stuff is specifically designed for guitars. Mine is in the bin now anyway..

[nitroburner1000]

Dye done, build up of top coats now, first one done, not that happy with how uneven the spalt is but didn't dare risk sanding it, it's only the bottom edges so hopefully the top coats will diffuse it a bit..

The red looks absolutely stunning mate

[wazkelly]

Agree that the red looks awesome. The more clear top coats you add it will soak into the grain pores that you can still see.

Most guitar forums seem to recommend light steel wool use between coats and I did exactly that on 1st & 2nd builds and they were the ones where I had the most finish related dramas, all due to steel wool causing more harm whilst the finish was still green. Reverted to wet sanding instead and problem solved no matter how fresh the last coat was, however best to leave things for a minimum 24 hours or 48 hours in the midst of winter over here.

The trick seems to be light and delicate sanding every couple of coats, even if just to give it some tooth for the next coat to grab onto.

[chrissyinbkk]

Anyone tried that shielding paint and if any good? I've just used the copper tape and you need the patience of a saint!!
From what I have read the shielding stops buzz from outside electric interference, flourecent lights etc etc... in that my guitar will only ever be used at home do I need to really develop the patience to do it?

[Simon Barden]

I find shielding tape is easy to apply. I don't bother with larger pieces and trying to cut it exactly to size any more, I just use the 1" (approx.) tape everywhere and if I leave a gap then just use some more to patch it up. I got cheap stuff from Amazon and although thin, it works fine and is generally easier to fit than the thicker stuff. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The pickup cavities will need to be linked back to a ground point. I find this easier to so by soldering some wire to the copper than messing about with washers, wire and screws if you use shielding paint. Both work, but the tape works out a lot cheaper.

No, you don't have to do it, especially if it's just for home use, but it does make the guitar just that bit nicer when it's electrically quiet.

[chrissyinbkk]

Thanks for that Simon, I read so much about making sure the copper was either folded over at a joint or soldered to retain conductivity... the link you posted has conductive adhesive...job sorted... one on order already

[Simon Barden]

I thought that - and it probably was true in the past. But now the stuff has conductive adhesive, it really is very easy to apply. It's still worth checking the conductivity with a multimeter - I did the underside of a pickguard with it, with parallel runs of tape just crossing at the very edges and was getting some very weird readings. I stuck another couple of strips at right angles to the rest and got a nice consistent sub 1 ohm reading.

[chrissyinbkk]

Slight issue, I'm sure I have read here where someone had the same prob but cannot find it again...

Over the weekend I hope to be doing the final assembly, just checked the 3 way switch in tonight and can't get the nut on, do not fancy deepening the rout, there are 2 nuts on it and a washer..... is it ok leave the backing nut off? plan was to put a thin piece of plastic under it anyway

[Simon Barden]

Yes, just leave the backing nut off but I'd still have a washer on the back if possible. Not sure about the switches that come with the kits but with Switchcraft switches you can get an extended front 'ring nut' that has a thread below the ring part, not just on the ring, which tend to be used on Gibson Les Pauls and similar where the rout isn't quite so deep, so more wood is left between the front of the body and the rout for more strength.