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Thread: Yamatji - LPM-1E

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Looks great! It will look even better once painted and labelled.

    No position markers on the fretboard. Is that intentional and if so are you leaving it plain or adding your own?
    Hi Simon, I don't think I'll do anything to the fretboard. It has dot markers on the side if I lose my way. I think the plain look is cool.

  2. #32

  3. #33
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    headstock shape looks excellent Darryl.

    looks like you are very good at photography too - nice clean photos of the subject
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
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  4. #34
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    Have any of you ever left the neck in an unfinished state? I don't like the sticky lacquer feel, and I've taken the finish off the back of my Washburn and it feels great. I am just concerned that if I don't put anything on the neck, it may warp or something ...

  5. #35
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Great headstock shape mate.
    As far as necks go I use Tung oil and absolutely love the feel.
    Not sticky or glossy. Just super smooth
    I apply it very patiently with 1000 wet and dry paper over about 8 weeks


    Sent from outta space using MartianTalk

  6. #36
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Darryl it's not recommended to leave the neck raw, but I doubt it will warp. You could maybe wipe it with some wax may protect it more. Finish will protect it more from wear.
    Or as Oli suggested maybe some tung oil.
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  7. #37
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    looks like you are very good at photography too - nice clean photos of the subject
    If you've followed Darryl's Facebook link you'll see that he's both a superb artist and a very good guitarist.

  8. Liked by: darryl.bellotti

  9. #38
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    Put a coat of Karijini Red down. Didn't put anything underneath like black or anything. I wanted a pretty even red across. Sanded it really well ... Well thought I did ... but a couple of spots have come up near the cutaway. Everywhere else on the body looks great. It doesn't have as much pop in the veneer as I'd hoped, but I have a few ideas up my sleeve.

    Does anyone have any suggestions of how I could recover from here?

    Attachment 20365

  10. #39
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hi Darryl, time to bring on the Goof Off which can be found at large hardware stores. It might take a bit of the stain off too but that is easy to reapply. While at the hardware store grab a toothbrush sized wire brush, they usually come in a pack of 3 where one is made of brass, and ever so lightly brush across the glue spot area after using Goof Off in the direction of the grain and hopefully that should help to get rid of some really stubborn bits.

    Best to really work hard with Goof Off on a rag before using a wire brush as these thin veneers are easily damaged.

    You will probably have to reapply the stain a few more times to the affected areas to build up some depth of colour before doing the next all over layer of finish.

    Cheers, Waz
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  11. #40
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    Yeah cool. Thanks Waz! I'll check it out. Its either that, or do a design around the edges, a kind of burst finish in a style like one of my designs below:

    Attachment 20366

    Could look cool ...

  12. Liked by: Guvna19

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