Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Glad you triple-checked at the time. It's always worth asking the question, just in case.
Just a thought, but why isn't 'triple' spelt with 3 'p's.
Yep, as the saying goes "Measure twice, cut once", and I agree, it's always good to triple-check things to make sure they are 100% correct, because human beings aren't infallible, we make mistakes, and it's usually when we have lapses in concentration that mistakes are more likely to occur.
I think the reason why "Triple" isn't spelt with three 'p's is probably due to one of those quirks of the English language, the really interesting thing is, the English language is actually a mixture of other languages which goes back to ancient times.
I'm just in the process of searching for some suitable wire to wire-up the new DC in socket to the circuit board, I really want to find a piece of 3-way ribbon cable rather than use three separate pieces of wire, just to keep things neat.
Update:
I just found exactly what I was after, all I need to do now is un-solder the old DC in socket and replace it with the new one and then it should be good to go.
I'll post some pics so you can see what the old socket and the new socket look like and the piece of 3-way ribbon wire I used to fit the new socket to the circuit board....stay tuned.
Here we go:
The small socket on the left hand side of the pic is the original DC in socket, the one on the right hand side is the new one, next to the new one is the piece of 3-way ribbon wire I'm going to use to connect it to the circuit board, the reason for that is that the new socket is a bit wider than the original, so I need to turn it 90 degrees in order to get it to fit, this necessitates connecting the three terminals to the circuit board via three pieces of wire, the good news is that the new socket will fit in the hole in the pedal's casing, and it will be held securely in place via a thin nut.
Before going any further, I thought it would be prudent to check that the two switched-contacts in the new DC in socket were indeed good, so I used my multimeter set to continuity test to test for continuity between the two contacts, fortunately they tested good.
And then out of curiosity, I picked up the old DC in socket and had a look at it,.....and now I know, as it turns out, one of the terminals on the old DC in socket is a bit loose (it happens to be one of the switched contacts that disconnects the battery when the adaptor is plugged in), I'm guessing that heat from soldering probably caused it to come lose.
So there you have it folks....the root-cause of all the trouble.
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