# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Maybe, though we have got a lot better at discerning hazardous materials and most stuff has been actively tested.
Thanks for the feedback on the Blackwood, I'll keep an eye on this thread.
When you (those who have a piece) feel like you have adequately assessed it, perhaps you can flick me an email with some summary dot points. I can then pass these back to the factory.
Cheers,
Adam
adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com
One of the things I think everyone would like to see is the materials safety data sheet for it. In fact we should really have seen that before staring to cut and sand it, just in case!
I'd prefer not to do any more with it until it's made available.
I tried to order a neck from Warmoth about 1-2 months ago and was told they could not send it as per CITES but I am lucky as I just changed to maple as I found the guitar I was trying to replicate was also originally produced with a full maple neck.
As for the MSDS firstly any MSDS that you get from a Chinese source throw away and always take normal precautions as I have found that some MSDS depending on where they are from are less than truthful if they harm the sales of overseas products as I have found in the past. The same as filing for a patent in China and don't even start me on their environmental practices as they have none.
Any wood should be treated as dangerous due to flammability and contact / dust inhalation and any wood that is found to contain any form of resin just stay away from just like MDF. Any process that produces dust always wear breathing and eye protection and I am not talking safety glasses but a full face mask with air filter as your eyes can absorb dust and anything that will happen to your lungs can also happen to your eyes.
Some people are more resistant than others but anybody who doesn't adhere to OHS in my books deserves everything they get and any one who carries on like a macho idiot , oh it wont happen to me , I just want to punch into next week as I have lost a lot of unfortunate people who were treated like lab rats by the companies that thought sales were much more important than lives.
Very good point, and one I didn't consider, as I was informed it's just another wood with a colour treatment. I will definitely ask them if they can supply an MSDS immediately.
I seriously doubt there is any more risk than working with any timber kits, but I agree it would be wise to put these samples aside until we all know exactly what's in them.
Cheers,
Adam
adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com
Hi Everyone,
Let me start by saying that ALL work done with this fretboard was done with breathing apparatus (not just a cheap dustmask) just in case...
Thought I might post the pics of neck construction as some might find this interesting too.
1/ The fretboard was thickness down to approx 6mm and squared up then initial fret slots were cut for a 25.5inch scale. Just noticed the fret slots don't look square in the pic, they are. its just the angle of the pic :) lol
2/ Neck timber was prepared to 19mm thickness and truss rod slot routed in (using rout table)
3/ Couple of drops of silicone to stop truss rod rattles then taped and glue applied
4/ Fretboard then positioned using locator nails and clamped
Findings so far:
1/ The Rosewood has a distinct smell, this is the solid board, not smelling it as its worked... sort of like a Smoked Paprika, reasonably strong but not unpleasant
2/ Has a very smooth surface with nil tearout when thicknessed
3/ The shavings are very fine and have a Crystalline look about them, I would say this would be some type of resin that the wood is impregnated with.
4/ On cutting fret slots I found that it cuts easily. Feels like cutting hardwood but with no grain issues, if that makes sense. Because it is so smooth when cutting by hand the saw can have a tendency to wander
5/ I used soft nails as locators and they bent while trying to drive into the timber, so its quite hard. Then drilled guide holes as I normally would for hardwood. Drilled easily and then was able to drive the nails in without a problem, no splitting occurred
6/ Seems to glue well, did not clean timber with thinners or anything first as I expect if it was done in a factory they wouldn't bother doing this either
Next step is routing sides of fretboard to match neck and then sanding in a radius
The neck was a piece of reclaimed hardwood that turned out to be Vic Ash once dressed down and had a dryness of 7.3%
A bit of discussion over on TDPRI about Pau Ferro becoming the fretboard of choice to replace Rosewood, apparently Fender have been dabbling with it for a while
http://www.wood-database.com/pau-ferro/