Originally Posted by Marcel
Lol....yep, revenge will be sweet....*cue long, drawn-out evil laugh*
Lol....yep, revenge will be sweet....*cue long, drawn-out evil laugh*
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
Build 5 LP-1LQ
Build 4 ES-5V
Build 3 JR-1
Build 2 GD-1
Build 1 TLA-1
Now picture that scene extended by, oh, 100 hours, now that's an evil laugh....lol.
Just out of curiosity, I had a quick peek at the insides of the quad box by shining a torch through a gap in the back baffle, inside it, I saw four rear-mounted Celestion G12E-50 Rocket 50 speakers.
Last edited by DrNomis_44; 31-07-2018 at 09:00 PM.
Oh bugger, you'd best send it back then eh Doc!?
FrankenLab:
Turning tone wood into expensive sawdust since 2016!
Nah, it's a keeper, Celestions are good speakers.
Only kidding Doc😜😁
FrankenLab:
Turning tone wood into expensive sawdust since 2016!
Celestions are honest speakers, (so will handle a true 50W, unlike some other speaker brands) but not all are great. Those ones are definitely built to a low price-point. At 95dB, it's not the loudest speaker out there (though probably a benefit with a 200W amp) so don't be surprised if the amp doesn't sound as loud as you think it should. https://celestion.com/product/20/rocket_50/
The trouble with a quad-box is that it costs such a lot to upgrade all the speakers.
I guess the Ashton quad box I bought is better than nothing at all, at least I know it is working perfectly with no rattles or distorted sound from the speakers, I may end up upgrading the speakers at a later date, but for the time being they're fine.
Now that I've got the speakers sorted out, I can turn my attention to the amplifier itself, I have been doing my best to resist the urge to try the amp out with the quad box because I want to be 100% sure that the amp is totally electrically safe, I really don't plan on dying from a 500V DC shock any time soon, one thing I definitely need to do is replace the stock 3-core mains cabling, if I was doing an electrical Tag and Test on it I'd fail it.
Last edited by DrNomis_44; 01-08-2018 at 11:21 PM.
Update:
Did some work on the Super Twin amp chassis this afternoon, this involved replacing the original power and standby switch (they seemed a bit sluggish in operation) with two new 240V AC 3A DPDT Toggle Switches I bought from Jaycar Electronics, while I was in the process of replacing the original standby switch, I noticed that there was a wire and the + terminal of a 100uF/350V cap that was supposed to be soldered to one lug of the switch, in fact, they had not been properly soldered to the lug at all, just crimped onto it, so I made sure I soldered them in place on the new switch.
Going to be doing some more work on the Super Twin amp tomorrow, which will involve replacing the original 240V AC mains lead with a new one.
Stay tuned for more updates......
Update:
Had to take a break from working on the Super Twin last week, reason being.....my 48 Watt Temperature-controlled Soldering Station simply wasn't "cutting the mustard" when it came to de-soldering the old mains earth wire from the chassis, realized that I needed a soldering iron with more grunt in it, so today, I went to my local Bunnings shop and bought a new 50/100 watt soldering iron, which proved quite up to the job, moral of the story.....if you're planning on doing servicing work on guitar amps, you need more than one soldering iron, a medium wattage one and a higher wattage one to de-solder those big solder blobs on the chassis, some amp manufacturers use the amp chassis as part of the grounding system, and the chassis can act as a huge heatsink, soaking up all the heat you pour into the solder joint, hence the need for a soldering iron with lots of grunt.
Of course, in hindsight I should have known that......
Stay tuned for more updates.
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