Cobs TLA-1 First build

[Andy40]

What wierdy said makes sense. It shouldn't have had a veneer but clearly looks like it does, which is a shame, because if you had known (and posted about it) we would all have told you the perils of sanding through a very thin veneer and maybe some tips to get rid of glue spots.

The TLA is supposed to be a solid body, no veneer. sanding should have been a breeze. It looks salvageable, easily by patching, leveling and painting. Intermediate by patching and staining, but a dark colour burst as Simon said is a great option.

Let us know how you get on.

[Cobba21]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions, some photos to below show the front as it is now after sanding with 400. Also the belly cut query from earlier, it wasn't super obvious (like it is now) at the time that it was a veneer back.

I think I will go for a reasonably solid finish with no or little grain viable as the front grain is not that appealing where it will be most visable with a burst finish and there are some other imperfections (which I had hoped might improve with a good sand) such as on the top side where you can see the top piece of timber is not complete in the middle of the cut in (which would be hidden in a burst finish I know), the timber joins are visible and are not square to the rest of the guitar, you might be able to see that against the switch rout or the neck Pup rout if you look close enough, its miles out.

So from here I have some questions:
- How far do I go with sanding before applying the timbermate grain filler?
- Do I only need to do one coat of timbermate?
- How long does the timbermate need to dry before sanding back?

Cheers!

[wazkelly]

Hmmm, belly cut didn't give up too many clues that there was a veneer on the back but the strong differences in grain from front to back where the 3 sections of timber used are visible is a giveaway that something was not quite right.

Shame that the 3 bits of ash vary so much as the left section may come out darker than the middle and right hand side. If going with a solid paint colour Phrozn mentioned on a recent post about timbermate shrinking back into the grain when applying top coats and it could be would reading before deciding what to do.

Your dark red stain is still achievable, just may require a bit more delicate work to pull it off - 2 or 3 shades lighter on the left and the colour you want in the middle and RHS might work.

[Cobba21]

I decided to sand back the veneer and see what was lurking underneath, surprisingly there wasn't too many nasties, just a couple of character adding imperfections. After a lot of sanding over the last week and many tiral and errors (on scrap timber) this is what I have ended up with, the stain is still a bit damp in these pics.

[FrankenWashie]

That really strong grain pattern at the top bouts sort of seems out of key with the rest of it which matches a lot better. In saying that it does impart some character, and i really like that red, is that a DT Stain?

[Cobba21]

Tonight I couldn't help but sit the hardware against the body and see what it looks like. Very happy with how its looking thus far. The photos tonight didn't pick up the colour very well, but it is a very deep burgundy which looks great but I don't think I want it to go much darker. My original plan was to have a high gloss finish but seeing this as it is now I'm thinking more of an oil type finish, just to seal it and enhance the colour a bit, maybe a true oil or something similar. Will this make the finish much darker?? Any other suggestions?

Also really like the contrast with the lighter neck and fret board, was thinking possibly the same oil on this. Does the fret board require any special treatment other than a good oil? Also I assume it will golden up a little even with a clear oil?

[Cobba21]

That really strong grain pattern at the top bouts sort of seems out of key with the rest of it which matches a lot better. In saying that it does impart some character, and i really like that red, is that a DT Stain?

It certainly does stand out as the grain is bigger and runs the opposite way to the rest of the body, but I don't mind it. The stain was a Feast and Watson mahogany.

[Andy40]

Nice save Cobba. Lovin the look with the hardware. Very cool

[wokkaboy]

looking great Cobba, worked out fine sanding the veneer off, at least its ash timber underneath - no one will ever know

[wazkelly]

Satin wipe on poly might work better that Tru Oil as it tends to gloss up.

Everyone has different ideas and opinions on what to do with maple fret boards and almost anything works from lemon oil to wax to lacquered type finishes and all up to what look and feel you are chasing.

Like the contrast in those shots and looking good.