Chuck’s N1M "Semi-scratch" Build

[Chuck]

In amongst all my questions, I've actually done something constructive. Not sure about you guys, but any time I have to get the router out I'm nervous as mistakes are so hard to fix. Today was the neck pocket. Luckily the stewmac perspex template I had for a bass has a guitar template at the other end and it was almost a perfect fit for the PBG neck. As it was a fraction loose, I put some electrical tape along each side to narrow it down, and it ended up perfect.



The post-it note on the body had the depth (15.875mm) written on it so I wouldn't forget. That said, I went to 17mm as I know I'll be taking a bit off the top as I finish the body. I know that I should have finished the body first, but as I'm being quite fluid in the design of this one I wanted the neck pocket there to help me visualise the final thing. Whether that was the right call or not I'll find out! Bottom line is the neck fits snugly so I can move forward.

[WeirdBits]

I'd definitely go with left-handed (right-side) tuners. In addition to what Simon mentioned there's also the way the post loads the worm gear. Though less of an issue with quality tuners, the right-way round the post pivots the load into the gear but when it's flipped the load is pivoting away from the gear which could introduce some slack and/or affect longevity etc.

[ZenAndZen]

If you are still looking for a 'Jimmy Page' wiring scheme..



It will make things easier if you have a copy to refer to instead having to access youtube all the time, download the video

ONLINE VIDEO CONVERTER
http://convert2mp3.net/en/index.php

[Chuck]

If you are still looking for a 'Jimmy Page' wiring scheme..

Cheers Zen. I've actually done as Salo did on his build and bought the same pre-wired one he did off ebay. It does feel a little like cheating, but between effects pedals and an amp kit I'm getting as much time with the soldering iron as I think I ever want!

[Chuck]

Okay, headstock shaped. I'm not using a template anymore when I shape them as I like to see what happens when you freehand them a bit more. This one has ended up a bit more like a P-bass shape with the transition between the "ball-end" and the underside being more open (and if you read that sentence without knowing it's about headstocks it sounds pretty weird). I've also levelled off the frets and put a little dingowax on the fretboard - there's some really nice grain there (better in real life than in the pic) which is sweet.

[Chuck]

One quick tip (although it may be something everyone does already!). When I applied the dingowax to the fretboard I used my finger - the heat and friction help it warm up and sink it. I just did a second light application and decided to use the little buffer that I have with my dremel. It really worked a treat! Just thought I'd pass it on...

[Andy40]

Good job. I use a buffer too, only to shine it up though.

[Chuck]

I've got a few routing templates lying around, but I've never made one for a humbucker before. I'll do a test with it as I may need to open up the ears a little more, but with a good Japanese chisel on MDF that's a nice easy "slice through butter" job. Getting there slowly but surely!

[Chuck]

I figured it was time to face my demons are have a better crack at a custom pickguard. I've made a template from some 6mm MDF (that still needs a little finetuning) and will summon up the courage to get the router out again. I'm a little concerned that the speed of the router will melt the plastic - anyone got any thoughts on that?

You can also see the JP wiring harness that arrived in the mail yesterday. The jack will be top mounted just behind it, and I need to order a switch to go on the bottom bout. I'll keep the paint scheme under wraps for now, but there will be some masking and pinstriping involved...!

[wokkaboy]

coming along well Chuck. All the pickguards and covers I have cut with a scroll saw then files and sanded to shape. Not sure with the router and template try running the router at a slower speed and you should be ok doubt it will get hot enough to melt the plastic