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Thread: Chuck’s N1M "Semi-scratch" Build

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Not quite the only difference. It's only a small one but the tuning key normally sits on the side of the post away from the player. If you rotate the tuners from a R/H set, then the keys will be nearer the player. It will still work, but it might look a little strange as you get used to guitars looking a certain way.

    The other thing to consider is that often the screw fixing lug (if there is one) sticks in towards the middle of the headstock at a 45° angle to the line of the tuners. If you get tuners like this and don't get a L/H set, then those lugs will be facing the outside of the headstock and be very near the edge. If you then knock a tuner peg, the rotational force force might be strong enough to split the wood open.

    I think you're safer if you get a L/H set.

  2. #2
    Mentor Chuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Not quite the only difference. It's only a small one but the tuning key normally sits on the side of the post away from the player. If you rotate the tuners from a R/H set, then the keys will be nearer the player. It will still work, but it might look a little strange as you get used to guitars looking a certain way.

    The other thing to consider is that often the screw fixing lug (if there is one) sticks in towards the middle of the headstock at a 45° angle to the line of the tuners. If you get tuners like this and don't get a L/H set, then those lugs will be facing the outside of the headstock and be very near the edge. If you then knock a tuner peg, the rotational force force might be strong enough to split the wood open.

    I think you're safer if you get a L/H set.
    Good point Simon - thanks for that!
    Completed Builds: #1 TL-1 "Telemaster" (GOTM Oct 2016); #2 The "Maplecaster" scratch build; #3 JB-4 "Bass IV" (co-winner GOTM Jan 2017); #4 ST-1M "Surfcaster" (GOTM Apr 2017), #5 JZA-1 "EC Deluxe"

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