Chuck’s N1M "Semi-scratch" Build

[Simon Barden]

Of course the original Gibson Jimmy Page LP model (where the harness first appeared) came with ceramic 496R and 500T pickups, which didn't sound bluesy at all, which is why I eventually swapped mine out for some Bare Knuckle Mules to get a more original and bluesier sound.

[ZenAndZen]

The moment I saw this I immediately thought of this build ..



many more ideas [sorry if you already have done this]
a google image search for offset humbucker guitars

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=o...kers&*&imgrc=_

[gavinturner]

Looking great Chuck! The reverse headstock is a great addition. I do love those pawn shop models Zen!

cheers,
Gav.

[Chuck]

The moment I saw this I immediately thought of this build ..



many more ideas [sorry if you already have done this]
a google image search for offset humbucker guitars

That is a cracker Zen. While I may be an offset junkie, I don't normally like reverse bodies, but that one looks very cool.

[Chuck]

The AC4s are certainly on the hot side. Very difficult to get a clean sound from them without turning the guitar volume control right down. So if you never actually play clean and want your amp input pushed hard, then they're fine. Otherwise in the Tonerider range I'd go for the Alnico II (labelled AC2 in the PB shop) or the hotter Rocksong. The AC2 is the most like an old PAF, the Rocksong is an overwound variant on it. An AC2 in the neck and a Rocksong in the bridge would be similar to the classic Seymour Duncan '59/JB combination.

Thanks so much Simon - that makes my decision very easy!

[Chuck]

One more question (sorry!). With a reverse headstock I'm assuming you need to get left-handed 6-in-line tuners so the string would wrap from the "top" rather than the "bottom"... yes?

[Zandit75]

I don't think that's an issue Chuck. The keys rotate in either direction, it's just a matter of which way you wind the strings.
The only physical difference between left and right tuners is the lug for the locating screw.

[Chuck]

I don't think that's an issue Chuck. The keys rotate in either direction, it's just a matter of which way you wind the strings.
The only physical difference between left and right tuners is the lug for the locating screw.

Ha! That's a very good point!! Can't believe I didn't think of that [slinks off feeling rather embarrassed...]

[Simon Barden]

Not quite the only difference. It's only a small one but the tuning key normally sits on the side of the post away from the player. If you rotate the tuners from a R/H set, then the keys will be nearer the player. It will still work, but it might look a little strange as you get used to guitars looking a certain way.

The other thing to consider is that often the screw fixing lug (if there is one) sticks in towards the middle of the headstock at a 45° angle to the line of the tuners. If you get tuners like this and don't get a L/H set, then those lugs will be facing the outside of the headstock and be very near the edge. If you then knock a tuner peg, the rotational force force might be strong enough to split the wood open.

I think you're safer if you get a L/H set.

[Chuck]

Not quite the only difference. It's only a small one but the tuning key normally sits on the side of the post away from the player. If you rotate the tuners from a R/H set, then the keys will be nearer the player. It will still work, but it might look a little strange as you get used to guitars looking a certain way.

The other thing to consider is that often the screw fixing lug (if there is one) sticks in towards the middle of the headstock at a 45° angle to the line of the tuners. If you get tuners like this and don't get a L/H set, then those lugs will be facing the outside of the headstock and be very near the edge. If you then knock a tuner peg, the rotational force force might be strong enough to split the wood open.

I think you're safer if you get a L/H set.

Good point Simon - thanks for that!