I would suggest that the dots on the side of the fingerboard are in the same place as on a fretted fingerboard, ie between the 11th and 12th fret positions.
I would suggest that the dots on the side of the fingerboard are in the same place as on a fretted fingerboard, ie between the 11th and 12th fret positions.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Thanks, but no. That will never happen. Fretlines make the instrument unplayable for me. I either have frets, or not.
The incorrect (IMHO) placement is more of an issue in terms of correct bridge placement.
My '77P has the dots in the correct location, and I may undertake a little surgery to relocate these, but it's not a biggie. Having a full size upright sitting in the corner here, I'm sure I can cope.![]()
Unfortunately the factory isn't as sophisticated as we would probably like. A fretless neck will just be a fretted neck without fret slots.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
Hi buddy, I think you misunderstood what I meant.......on the thin edge of the fret board where dots are usually located you could add 3mm - 4mm vertical lines at the points where some of the frets may have been seated if it was a fretted neck.
If you play an upright it is a fair bet your ear is well trained to let you know when you are on the right spot or not.
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Thank you; yes, I did misunderstand. My apologies.
I did consider "relocating" the dots; scraping out the paint, filling the depressions, and then making new ones in the location as you're suggesting, but I couldn't be bothered. All that's needed is a bit of a guide, and I can cope with that.
With the grounding wire for the bridge/tailpiece, how do others connect this up?
My experience with things electrical, and especially living in an area where old Alfas and Minis corrode as you watch them, is that I am going to tin the end and secure it to the tailpiece through one of the mounting screws, rather than just leaving it as a stripped bare wire splayed out and contacting the underside of the tailpiece.
I'd appreciate the thoughts of others with more experience in this realm.
In most cases, regardless of bridge/tailpiece type, the ground wire just makes a pressure contact. A loop of bare wire under the bass bridge is all you need, but I often use a small piece of copper shielding tape to hold the loop where I want it so I can position it around a screw hole and/or ensure good contact etc. The important thing is to get a good electrical connection, best tested with a multimeter once it's in place.
Scott.
Many thanks.