Moo's TLA-1 - My First Build

[Moo]

Okay so plan of attack is to screw neck in, check scale length etc. then take apart and get going on sanding the body and shaping the headstock. A few questions:
- do I mark the placement of the bridge now?
- we are planning on a stain finish. Do I need to use a grain filler?
- are we ok to just use a jigsaw for the headstock and then sand it down?
- how is the fretboard finished? (Do you stain it/gloss it etc?)

Thanks heaps and sorry for all the noob questions haha

[FrankenWashie]

Okay so plan of attack is to screw neck in, check scale length etc. then take apart and get going on sanding the body and shaping the headstock. A few questions:
- do I mark the placement of the bridge now?
- we are planning on a stain finish. Do I need to use a grain filler?
- are we ok to just use a jigsaw for the headstock and then sand it down?
- how is the fretboard finished? (Do you stain it/gloss it etc?)

Thanks heaps and sorry for all the noob questions haha

Hi Moo,

I would definitely get your bridge placement sorted out first. You need to be sure that this is as accurate as possible (within .5mm or so) to insure you scale length is correct with some allowance for intonation. On some of the TL kits people have found issues in the placement of the rout for the Bridge pick up so you will want to verify the scale length to the bridge saddles with it all in place. Make sure it is all square to the nut and entered and that your e strings give have an even gap to the fretboard edge. In some rare cases guys have had to take small routs to correct for the bridge PUP rout being too far back to get scale length correct. Not sure that this is still an issue these days as the product has been refined since these issues were first raised.

If that all checks out I would mark and then drill the holes for your bridge mounting before you start sanding as if you try and do this after stain/finish you rub the risk of damaging your finish. As a rule of thumb make sure all your required holes are at the very least marked (nail or marker punched) before you sand. With the fit issue you noted on the scratch plate, it is especially important to get this fitted properly around the neck heel and the position your screw holes for that if they are not marked already. Your control cover plate should then just locate from the indent in the scratch plate.

Grain fille ris a personal choice. if you want a smoother finish then you may want to go that way, but if you are okay with a lot of the grain texture showing through, don't fill, just hold in mind some areas that are more open may soak up more of the stain.

Jigsaw is fine, just leave yourself plenty of latitude to your lines for clean up as Jigsaws are notoriously hit and miss. I'd rough shape with the Jigsaw for stock removal, then drop to rasps or microplanes to get things closer to your marked out lines, you can finish with files or sanding sticks/sandpaper and sanding cauls fro detailed shaping. Go easy with the jigsaws and rasps, removing wood is far easier than putting it back on!

Fretboards, comes down to personal choice, but the simplest finish is rubbing on Lemon oil or fretboard wax (Dingowax is sold though PBG). Some on the forum have used CA glue finishes (Mainly fretless basses) others turned oil and others have just left them raw. I've only ever used Lemon oil on my existing store bought instruments and never really had issues. Again a personal preference for what feels good to you.

Hopefully some of this makes sense and is of use to you. Happy Building!