As well as the footswitch, I also can't see a knob for the potentiometer in the kit. Have you got one? Easy to overlook until your final assembly and then it holds you up! Looks like a solid shaft on the pot, so you'll need a knob with a grub screw. As pot shafts come in different sizes, measure its diameter before you buy a knob! (Edit: looks like it should be 6.25mm)Originally Posted by Andy40
I finished the 10 min Dirt and Boost in about 30 mins (I am a newbie) and wired it up with alligator clips. Works pretty well with the Fender Champion!
I've got an enclosure from Jaycar about a 1590B size and just need to get a foot switch (I didn't realise one didn't come with the kit till today).
I find it really is best to get your enclosure sorted and drilled before you start wiring things up, as you really want to keep your wire lengths as short as possible (for minimal noise pickup), whilst still giving you enough flexibility to move things around whilst putting it together. Whilst the casing should provide screening from outside interference, any circuit (those designed to add gain especially) allows for the pickup of circuit generated noise by nearby wires. The shorter the length of wire, the less of it there is to pick up noise. Also, it's just easier to fit everything in the box if you haven't got loads of excess wire all coiled up and getting in the way.
(Edit: It does come with an LED - built onto the circuit board so comment about possibly no LED deleted)
Both kit's jack sockets look like the ground connection is connected to the metal fixing screw, so the top half of your case will be nicely grounded as long as this can touch bare metal. You should be able to measure the continuity from the inside of the jack socket to the inside of the case with a multimeter. If there isn't any, then you may need to scrape away at any paint on the inside of the hole for the jack. Some kits come with plastic jack sockets. In this instance you may need to solder an earth wire onto the correct earth tag (or correct size washer) so that it can be connected to earth somewhere on the circuit and the tag mounted so that its kept pressing by a potentiometer or switch onto the metal case. If a potentiometer's body has a connection to earth, this also should provide a good earth connection for the case - but it's worth checking with a multimeter.
If it's a fairly standard cast alloy case, then the bottom cover will simply screw onto the top of the case. Be sure to scrape away any paint around the inner edges of the screw holes in the base plate, so that the screws provide earth continuity to the base plate.
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