Simon B's ES-3 build

[Simon Barden]

It's not as simple as a basic shim, as the board is wider than the neck slot on b the treble side, so there's an angled heel section and an angled under-fretboard section that need dealing with as well as the bottom of the heel. All of those gaps need careful angle adjustment, with a wedge of wood adding in each gap.

[king casey]

Shimming the bottom of the neck would be easy enough.
The other issue would be filling the gap created between the edge of the fretboard to the body.

If this were done before any finishing took place the sins could be easily covered no?



cheers, Mark.

[DarkMark]

Shimming the bottom of the neck would be easy enough.
The other issue would be filling the gap created between the edge of the fretboard to the body.

If this were done before any finishing took place the sins could be easily covered no?



cheers, Mark.

That’s exactly what I had to do with my GR-1SF as I set the neck for a floating bridge. Oh, what a job that was!
Don’t forget the gap at the back requires covering in the form of a cap. I hope Simon keeps working on it because I really like my ES-3.

[king casey]

That’s exactly what I had to do with my GR-1SF as I set the neck for a floating bridge. Oh, what a job that was!
Don’t forget the gap at the back requires covering in the form of a cap. I hope Simon keeps working on it because I really like my ES-3.

I am assuming it was done BEFORE any glue was introduced.

Well I'll have to shed one guitar from the collection before considering adding to it.

cheers, Mark.

[DarkMark]

I am assuming it was done BEFORE any glue was introduced.

Well I'll have to shed one guitar from the collection before considering adding to it.

cheers, Mark.

Yes, apart from the cap on the back of the neck. Better to do that after gluing the neck.
...unless your neck shim is perfectly flush with the body, but I still think extending the area of the neck towards the back of the body looks better and is easier to do.

[Simon Barden]

If you bother with it. You've got a 22-fret neck with no overhang on the ES-3 as opposed to a 20-fret with an overhang on a 175, so you're never going to get it authentic looking without an awful lot of extra work on the end of the neck. And you'd also need a floating bridge, which means a bigger neck angle and a custom order for no bridge post holes.

[Adamc]

It looks amazing Simon. I have shelved my semi hollow body kit until I have added many more strings to my bow. I can’t get the neck to fit anywhere near acceptably and I really don’t have the skill set to fix it. I’m actually thinking of starting again with a,shall we say, less bargain basement kit.
But I think your treatment of this has been incredible. I hope you get it to play as well as you want.


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