G'day H. bit late on the scene as was busy with EOFY crap at work all last week.
With the Goof Off, many glue marks are quite hard to see until 1st stain coat has been applied so suggest wiping the guitar with a soft damp cloth and closely inspect to see any parts that look different to the rest as these may just be small remnants of glue lurking in the background. The stuff has a really strong smell like acetone and hoped you used gloves. It even melted through the blue nitrite ones I used. Kept well clear of any binding as the stuff is designed to dissolve glue, the exact stuff that holds your binding together so best to stay well clear.
I know I will be banished to the cupboard under the stairs in the naughty warehouse for admitting and even mentioning this but here goes... I used TO on back, sides front, & fret board for my Ash Jazz Bass as per below shots as most maple boards I have played in the past were always sealed with some sort of finish and it seemed to make sense as all the oils available suggest not good on maple but ideal for rosewood. Only put around 6-8 very light oats on the Fret Board and then used a fret finishing tool bought on eBay that has a slot cut in it for the fret to protrude and a bit of metal either side to protect things when using 0000 steel wool remove TO finish off the frets and also bring them up nice and clean & shiny. Some forum members have suggested making a similar thing from an ice cream container lid. Should mention that a little bit of light steel wool sanding was used between the frets between some of the coats just to keep things going down even. Also used the Maguires car polish all over too and took more time polishing the fret board to make sure no residue was left behind. Yes, TO does have a very light amber tint but as you can see below it came out OK and not as dark as some store bought examples made in USA. Have used the DT wax on Rosewood and whilst harder work it does a much better job on that timber than lemon oil which tends to look quite dry rather soon after application whereas the wax looks lush and almost moist and feels better once playing too. Could work OK on maple too, just preferred the traditional look and feel and lesser ongoing maintenance.
On the forum everyone has different opinions and advice and you just need to go with what you think best suits you. Hopefully some of the feedback and comments helps you plot an easier course through the mine field of many finishing challenges that lie ahead and wish you luck on your journey.
Edit, If wanting to stain the headstock suggest at least one or 2 coats of either DT Neck Finish or TO to the rest of the neck so that the colour on headstock does not bleed or penetrate where it shouldn't go, and always mask up with a good quality painters masking tape. Once you have the colour where you want it you can then apply same top coat stuff to seal things.
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