OK, I attempted to cut some small fillets of 2mm Maple veneer to help fill in for the over routed headstock ..... basically it's not going to work, it's too uneven a surface to stick the wood on.
So, I went back to my other thread where I asked for help regarding this and re read the posts, I saw that Dedman had suggested using epoxy like somebody else had with their fretless bass build, after searching for the build diary I saw what he meant.....that got me thinking about doing it to fix this, as I already have casting resin and hardener, building a well with tape was doable, if not ideal in this instance, but then I read about that build suffering from the resin coming away from the fretboard, and that he had to source proper boat building epoxy which finally worked.
Not the easiest thing to find when you live pretty much in the Sydney CBD, plus the minimum amount you can get tends to still be quite expensive..... I needed to find a way around this.
It's epoxy resin in putty form, comes in a tube, the resin is rolled around the catalyst, and you just break a piece off like you would Plasticine and roll it together in you hands to mix the resin and catalyst, mold it on to whatever you want, shape it and let it dry.
Put what you don't want to use straight away back into the tube.
Dry rock hard, is sandable and paintable ....No mixing resin , No worrying about bubbles in it, No need building a well or waiting ages for it to set.
So I've just spent this afternoon removing all of the Timbermate that I possibly could, and will try this epoxy putty out as soon as the timber dries off [needed to wet the Timbermate to get all of it off]
If this stuff works, which I see no reason why it shouldn't, I think this could actually be used to solve one of the major bug bears of the ES-3 and other semi kits that have that annoying little gap between the body and neck at two places.