DrNomis_44's Gold Standard STA-1M Build.

[DrNomis_44]

go 800 or even 1000 grit Doc

Would 1200 grit or 1800 grit do the job?

[wazkelly]

Hi Doc, go the highest you can get otherwise you risk stripping off too much finish which also means colour. How do I know, found out the hard way on my EX-5 build. Also need to use a cork sanding block and dip it in water after several passes so that you can wash off the slight build up of stuff in the grits. For the curvy bits you revert to folding over and using by hand. If you miss this part it will become trapped and then cause scratching of the surface, same as when not using enough water or even when sanding dry. Handy to have a soft cloth, maybe an old towel chopped up to moisten and use to wipe off build up of water and sanding residue on the surface of the guitar.

You seem to like ordering various bits online and suggest you get the Micro Mesh Guitarist Kit from https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/m...arist-kit.html

I am using it and happy with the results as it mainly polishes however the 4000 grit can also strip a fair bit of finish off too if you go too hard at it.

[DrNomis_44]

Hi Doc, go the highest you can get otherwise you risk stripping off too much finish which also means colour. How do I know, found out the hard way on my EX-5 build. Also need to use a cork sanding block and dip it in water after several passes so that you can wash off the slight build up of stuff in the grits. For the curvy bits you revert to folding over and using by hand. If you miss this part it will become trapped and then cause scratching of the surface, same as when not using enough water or even when sanding dry. Handy to have a soft cloth, maybe an old towel chopped up to moisten and use to wipe off build up of water and sanding residue on the surface of the guitar.

You seem to like ordering various bits online and suggest you get the Micro Mesh Guitarist Kit from https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/m...arist-kit.html

I am using it and happy with the results as it mainly polishes however the 4000 grit can also strip a fair bit of finish off too if you go too hard at it.

Cheers for that Wazkelly, might see if I can order that Micro Mesh Guitarist kit next fortnight, I had a look on the Bunnings Website and the finest grade of wet and dry sandpaper they sell is a roll of 1200 Grit, so I'll see if I can get some tomorrow in addition to the Snail Tape.

[Muzza]

You could also try 0000 steel wool with light pressure.

[DrNomis_44]

You could also try 0000 steel wool with light pressure.

I actually did that before I applied the second coat of DT CG Final Coat to the body, did seem to work, might try it again.

[tonyw]

I am using 600grit soaked in water and a bit of soap between coats, but i am using poly. I am now going to use a much higher grit to start to buff it up, so i finish at 0000 synthetic pads then Mequires 3 step compounds.

I have about 4 coats of Poly to go, idont know how you blokes finish a guitar in a week

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


Seeing as Sunday is finally here, I'm going to be applying the last coat of DT CG Final Coat to the Strat body shortly, there was about one area that needed a bit of sanding because I had applied a little too much of the finish to the body the last time, and it wasn't level, that has been sorted out now so I can go ahead with the Final Coat, while it is drying I'm going to start work on the scratchplate, stay tuned for more updates.

[dingobass]

idont know how you blokes finish a guitar in a week

It has got me buggered too, Tony...
It takes me at least 120 hours to complete a custom guitar, most of that time is taken up just on the sanding and finish...

[DrNomis_44]

It has got me buggered too, Tony...
It takes me at least 120 hours to complete a custom guitar, most of that time is taken up just on the sanding and finish...

Maybe it's because some of us are a bit more efficient with our time, I dunno, I'm just going by what feels right to me, anyway, I have just finished applying the last coat of DT CG Final Coat to the Strat Body, seeing as it looks virtually the same as it did in the last few pics I posted there's not much point in me posting pics of the body as it is now, well I might do once the finish has dried a bit, what I will do in the meantime is post some pics of the scratchplate wiring and get the Soldering mini-tutorial done for you guys.


I'm just about to start working on the scratchplate shortly so stay tuned for more updates.

I'm hoping that the new Entwistle ASN57 Noiseless pickups will turn up in the post sometime this coming week, but I doubt it since I ordered them prior to the Easter Holiday break, but you never know.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


I decided to go all-out with the shielding on the scratchplate and covered it completely with the copper shielding-foil, now some builders may think that's a bit excessive, but personally I think you need a good solid ground-plane in a device, or instrument, that's generating a relatively low-voltage, low-current signal in order to reduce the susceptibility to hum and radio-frequency noise, the last thing you want to hear in a live, or recording situation is either a constant..mmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....in the background, or some radio station broadcast from a foreign country to disrupt your performance of that meticulously constructed epic solo, or song, which tends to happen when you least want it to, i.e. right at the start or right in the middle of it when you're all hyped up.

Once I got the shielding all done, I used my multimeter to check for continuity all across the underside of the scratchplate, I found that there wasn't continuity between adjacent strips of copper-foil so I used my Soldering Station and some standard 60/40 Electronic grade solder to solder each strip together, after that I got readings of well under an ohm (0.02 Ohms) all across the underside of the scratchplate, so that was good enough for me, I'm just in the process of doing all the final wiring-up of the scratchplate now so stay tuned for more updates, and pics of my progress.


Note:


I'm going to see if I can buy some Conductive Shielding-Paint from my local Jaycar Electronics store next fortnight, I'm pretty sure they do stock some, if do manage to buy some I'll use it to coat the body routing.


The mini Soldering tutorial will be the next thing on my list to do.