Using Titebond I glued the neck to the body
After letting it set for about 20 minutes I took a look and had a minor heart attack (figuratively). The neck angle looked too steep and I was afraid it would be unplayable. I considered trying to separate them, but knew this would cause more damage than anything.
After the glue set overnight I removed the clamps and did a long overdue test build. Once I had strung up the high and low e strings I saw that I was worried for nothing; everything fit and lined up how it should (or so I thought, but we'll get to that later...)
OCTOBER 2017
A little stain had gotten underneath the masking, so this was my first opportunity to scrape the binding. It's silly how daunting this seemed to me at first. Reluctantly I did it and it worked out just fine... which is good because I'd have to do it a few more times later on
Cleaning the adhesive from the painter's tape off the fretboard. Eight frets down, fourteen to go!
Looks really nice. The screen print came up well. The neck angle can look pretty extreme on G styles, but there is generally a lot of adjustment in the bridge.
That said your last sentence is a bit concerning
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Now that the neck and body were assembled it was time to get into the Tru Oil. As much as I wanted to get this done quickly I knew that wouldn't turn out good. I tried to do one coat a day, building up 4-5 coats and then sanding using progressively higher grits.
At this point I had done 13 coats on the top, 7 on the headstock, 5 on the back and neck, and was up to 600 grit sandpaper
Haha, yeah, it gets interesting later on...Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Looks really nice. The screen print came up well. The neck angle can look pretty extreme on G styles, but there is generally a lot of adjustment in the bridge.
That said your last sentence is a bit concerning
This is almost like watching early episodes of How I met your mother where hints of the future are gradually introduced.
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Man is this every coming together beautifully!
Look really great. And I loved the Canadian 25 cent piece as scale on the headstock inlay. Made me smile.
Amazing work all round.
Current Build: RCA-4 http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8261
NOBODY ASKED YOU PATRICE!
(I hope you get that; it's one of the few references i know from that show)
Thanks rook, I'm glad. For those who haven't seen a Canadian quarter before it's comparable in size to an Australian 10¢ piece.
NOVEMBER 2017
It took a lot of trial and error to find a technique for applying Tru Oil that worked best. I tried putting it on with a bare finger, gloved finger, lint free cloth tampon and foam brush all with moderate success, but by far the best method I found was using cosmetic wedges. I would warm up the oil before applying it and tried to keep the coats as thin as possible.
After sanding with 600 grit sand paper I moved on to micro mesh pads. I was curious to see how much difference there would be between the higher mesh pads so I tried to take pictures from the same angle after using each one.
26 coats on the top/20 on the headstock/16 on the back and neck. Wet sanded with 1800 & 2400 micro mesh
30 coats on the top/24 on the headstock/20 on the back and neck. Wet sanded with 3200 micro mesh
34 coats on the top/28 on the headstock/24 on the back and neck. Wet sanded with 4000 micro mesh
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