Tweaky's ES-3 build...Blonde's have more fun?

[Tweaky]

I'm going to use this resin putty to build up the routed out area to what it 'Should' have been, then install the binding as originally intended.
Mask off the binding and spray it Black.
So the end result should look something like the rear of a 50's Gibson super 400 headstock, but I might bling that up a bit with a Art Deco design in that Gold paint


I'll taper it down the rear of the headstock, after I Blonde shellac the neck to bring out the grain, then run a black stripe down the center, into a reverse Black area of the neck heel, similar to this.


I haven't decided on the Gold design motif yet, as my attention has been spent trying to salvage this build because of my blunder.

[wokkaboy]

no worries Tweaky, better make sure the binding will glue to the epoxy resin as the pores in resin will be almost non existent whereas gluing to timber the glue has much more pores to adhere to

[Dedman]

Sounds like you have it all under control

[Tweaky]

no worries Tweaky, better make sure the binding will glue to the epoxy resin as the pores in resin will be almost non existent whereas gluing to timber the glue has much more pores to adhere to

What do you suggest I use as a suitable adhesive in this scenario ?
I could always texture the surface of the resin that the binding is to be glued to with a file/rasp after it has dried, if it would help adhesion between the two.

For every problem that seems solved, another rears it's head

EDIT: Actually I remember when at the hardware store this afternoon, I ask the sales help if this resin putty would be effected by Acetone [as used when binding] , he said No, but it would be effected by Alcohol.....so, I have 100% Alcohol I could wipe onto the resin to make it tacky, and Acetone to make the binding tacky..... seems some tests with scraps might be needed to see if a light coating with each chemical on their respective reactive base, might make the two adhere to each other without the need of using another third adhesive.

[Dedman]

Personally I'd just rough the resin up and use a bit of tite bond or something for that section

[Tweaky]

Will Titebond glue Binding?
News to me.
I thought most used Tarzan Grip for this application?...doesn't matter, with everything else I've bought along the way [sure you are the same] I now have a collection of adhesives LOL
But I think I might be heading where no build has gone before, so in a sense, I'm my own Guinea Pig

[dingobass]

In this case a medim viscosity CA glue might be the way t o go.

[Tweaky]

Thanks for your input Dingobass.

Just a question regarding that.

How does one regulate CA glue viscosity?
What constitutes [as in drips] light/ medium/ heavy ?

[peterh]

If you pick up CA glue from a hobby store (used lots in model building) it's usually sold by the viscosity (thin/med/thick). I think that's what you're asking about.

[Simon Barden]

Interesting work, Tweaky. I also had some small issues with veneer lifting at the edge of the neck cavity, but stuck it down with some watered-down PVA and now it's fine, plus it's all covered under a very dark tobacco finish. My neck joint fit is a lot better than yours, not 100% gap-free but any gaps are very small indeed and if the glue doesn't fill them, then filler will.

I bought some thin CA glue after watching a StewMac video on drop-filling small chips in the finish (I just used eBay to find some). Boy, that stuff has a very low viscosity and surface tension. It gets everywhere! If you want it to run under an edge (like a lifted ply laminate) it will do - but it will also run everywhere else at the same time. You really need one of those very long thin adapter nozzles for the bottle, as the standard nozzle just has too large a hole to regulate the flow and it's easy to get it everywhere.

Otherwise I haven't knowingly used any medium CA, just the standard domestic CA tubes.

Hopefully the weather should be improving for you by now, so that you can at least work on the guitar outside.