Psh-1 Build. Neck and bridge considerations

[Parfittron]

Hi all,

My wife and kids got me a psh-1 kit to build for my birthday. It's my first kit build, but I've refinished/rewired and replaced necks etc previously.

Looks mostly pretty good, few minor issues to resolve with the timber/ binding but should be mostly ok.

Couple of things I'd love some advice on before venturing too far.

Firstly, after test springing the axe up, neck looks straight and snugg in the pocket, but it does look like with the neck snug, the angle of the pocket has the headstock too far forward, meaning the angle of the necks causing action height issues. I've shimmed bolt on guitars before
, but should I look to do something here before looking to glue? I've checked that it's straight before this!

Secondly, the bridge feels pretty ordinary and was looking at the gotoh 510 wraparound for it. Wondering whether I can use the stock kit lugs for the bridge pins to avoid filling and Re drilling?

Perhaps the bridge is lower than the stock and fixes first issue?

Really looking forward to building!

[McCreed]

Hi Parfittron.
I have not built the PSH-1, but did an earlier variant, the PRS-1TS (no longer available) and my neck angle worked out fine without any alteration to the heel or pocket.

However IIRC, there have been a couple PSH-1's built here recently, so hopefully one of those members will advise more specifically.

re: the Gotoh 510 - I'm fairly confident that the existing holes will be fine for the Gotoh bushes with no need to plug & re-drill anything.
I installed a Gotoh TOM on my PRS-1TS using the factory holes. Both the kit posts and the Gotoh's are an M8 thread so they would be interchangeable. eg: the Gotoh posts will fit into the kit bushes if needs be.

Hope that helps.


Edit to add:

One mod I made to my build, which I should have done during the initial build stage, is I added a scallop to the lower horn (more like a PRS). This made a big difference in the playability of this guitar as well as how I felt about it. At one point I was considering selling it without hardware as a project for someone else. Now it's a keeper.

Just thought I'd mention it for your consideration since you've not started yet.
Here's my before & after:

[Parfittron]

Hi Parfittron.
I have not built the PSH-1, but did an earlier variant, the PRS-1TS (no longer available) and my neck angle worked out fine without any alteration to the heel or pocket.

However IIRC, there have been a couple PSH-1's built here recently, so hopefully one of those members will advise more specifically.

re: the Gotoh 510 - I'm fairly confident that the existing holes will be fine for the Gotoh bushes with no need to plug & re-drill anything.
I installed a Gotoh TOM on my PRS-1TS using the factory holes. Both the kit posts and the Gotoh's are an M8 thread so they would be interchangeable. eg: the Gotoh posts will fit into the kit bushes if needs be.

Hope that helps.


Edit to add:

One mod I made to my build, which I should have done during the initial build stage, is I added a scallop to the lower horn (more like a PRS). This made a big difference in the playability of this guitar as well as how I felt about it. At one point I was considering selling it without hardware as a project for someone else. Now it's a keeper.

Just thought I'd mention it for your consideration since you've not started yet.
Here's my before & after:

Thanks for the advice. Yeah from what I'd read I thought the bushes may be different, but if bolts are the same then that's a win.

I had thought whether to try the carve. Wasn't sure with the hollow body how much of the horn was solid! I think the cut away itself is deeper than on your model so isn't as much of a problem! Any issues with the binding when carving it?

[McCreed]

I had thought whether to try the carve. Wasn't sure with the hollow body how much of the horn was solid!

Yes, I can't say for sure where the solid turns to hollow IYKWIM, but based on the kit photo, I would guess it has to go at least to the back of the neck pickup route. I reckon the entire horn is solid. Wouldn't be hard to suss out with it in hand via tapping or even horizontal drilling from the pickup route.

I think the cut away itself is deeper than on your model so isn't as much of a problem!

I think both join the body at the 21st fret.

Any issues with the binding when carving it?

No issues, but it was "surgical" in its process

[Parfittron]

I poked a small steel ruler in via the f hole, it's definitely not all solid! It feels close enough I'm not sure I'd risk it for the first one!

[McCreed]

I poked a small steel ruler in via the f hole, it's definitely not all solid! It feels close enough I'm not sure I'd risk it for the first one!

That's interesting. Good to know.
You can now forget everything I said about scalloping!