NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[WeirdBits]

Andy is on the money. Yes, you should run the ground wire to the bridge post, and typically if you have 2 x A500K and 2 x B500K pots use the A's for volume and B's for tone.

As for the diagrams/layout and which to use... that will partially depend on the components that came with your kit. The Tonerider diagram uses a 'Switchcraft' style toggle switch and large caps, if that's what you have then that diagram is fine. However, most kits of this type come with smaller caps and an 'import' (or box) style toggle switch. If you have those type of components then you're probably better off using the PBG LP wiring diagram, the end result is the same it's just an alternative layout. Note: in the PBG diagram it doesn't show the solder dots on the lugs bent back to the casing on the volume pots, which do need a soldered connection. Some pot lugs can be fragile so it is often better to solder a short wire from the lug to the back of the pot, rather than risk trying to bend and solder them.

[wazkelly]

Here is my additional 2 cents worth.....conductive shielding paint is ok but would also recommend snail tape in the control cavity as a minimum.

Why, I have been playing both EX's through amps with headphones and the Bass sounds OK but the 6 stringer has a slight buzz which was not audible straight from the amp but would show up if I was to ever use it for recording. Got a few maintenance mods to perform on both and installing snail tape in the control cavities is now a priority just in case if you know what I mean. For a LP it would also make sense to do the 3 way switch cavity too.

The shielding paint seems to have done it's job in the PUP cavities which is a good thing as the dark colour has also covered up any bits that may have been visible from on top.

Hope this helps.

[Alkay]

Hi everyone,

Thank you all very much for the wiring advice and the other tips so far.

I followed the PBG LP wiring video's and I am happy to say that it works!

I'm about to do the intonation guide mention at the start of this build diary.

How much can I turn the truss rod before I snap the neck? eg. 1/4 or 1/2 turn depending on which way the neck is bowed.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[stan]

Hi everyone,

Thank you all very much for the wiring advice and the other tips so far.

I followed the PBG LP wiring video's and I am happy to say that it works!

I'm about to do the intonation guide mention at the start of this build diary.

How much can I turn the truss rod before I snap the neck? eg. 1/4 or 1/2 turn depending on which way the neck is bowed.

Cheers,

Alkay.

you'll break the truss rod before you break the neck

[Alkay]

Hi again and another update,

This is great it works with the humbuckers still stuck with masking tape.

A couple of issues:

The intonation and action is way out but I played a few songs anyway. I'm really happy with it. Better than my first build.

Humbuckers didn't have any holes pre-drilled so I'm not sure what to do here? The humbuckers on this kit are flat so I cant see where to align the circle dots under the strings. I know it sounds vague but I hope you get what I mean.

There is electronic interference in the background but it's not too bad. I need to ground all the cavities somehow but I'm having trouble getting a wire through the control cavity to reach the bridge pickup cavity for a start. All covers for the controls have copper shielding tape applied.

Anyway thanks so far everyone I am so surprised.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

If the truss rod feels extremely tight and you still need to take more front bow out of it try loosening it right off then gently pull the neck back with one hand whilst tightening up the truss rod.

Just did this on my EX-5 and then spent a further couple of hours readjusting the action and intonation as the action around 12th fret was riding way too high. Plays much better now and with a lower action the stock PUP's sound much better than what I realised. Win/win all round.

[Alkay]

If the truss rod feels extremely tight and you still need to take more front bow out of it try loosening it right off then gently pull the neck back with one hand whilst tightening up the truss rod.

Just did this on my EX-5 and then spent a further couple of hours readjusting the action and intonation as the action around 12th fret was riding way too high. Plays much better now and with a lower action the stock PUP's sound much better than what I realised. Win/win all round.

Hi wazkelly,

Thanks for the info although I'm not sure I need to do that at this stage. Well I hope not.

I turned the truss rod about 3/4 of a turn to the left and have adjusted the bridge height just above where the strings start to buzz when hitting every note on the fretboard.

A business card now justfits under the 9th fret on the low E as described in the intonation guide here.

The action is still way to high and it's quite difficult to do an open chord.

I have taken the nut off and am going to slowly sand the bottom side of the nut with 180 grit checking the action regularly.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Alkay]

Ok so I thought I would give an update.

I have sanded the base of the nut with 180 and it has made a slight difference however doing open chords is very difficult. Especially an open C major chord. The string height at the nut is way too high.

I have spent hours reading and watching video's online which has given me a slightly better understanding to adjust the buzzing on the frets, setting bridge height, action and intonation.

From my research I think I really need to adjust each individual string height in the nut.

Should I purchase some quality nut files(or just use an old guitar string) and a bone nut because they are more durable?

Cheers,

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

Wound strings might help but the G, B & E being unwound would most likely do nothing.

You could either keep sanding the base down or order a bone nut which may also need a bit sanded off the base too.

[Alkay]

Wound strings might help but the G, B & E being unwound would most likely do nothing.

You could either keep sanding the base down or order a bone nut which may also need a bit sanded off the base too.

I was thinking about that but thought I would ask incase someone had a trick up their sleeve hahaha.

Might be time to invest in some nut files and fret leveling tools.

I could keep sanding the base but I don't think I can go any lower. A business card just fits between the top of the 1st fret and the low E string when a capo is placed over the 3rd fret so I'm not sure if I should go lower.