You could always reshape the body, so the top edges are the same distance from the cover as the bottom edges. But you;d have to be prepared to re-do all the binding and cut new binding channels where you've narrowed the body. That's quite a tall order, though achievable. Or you could reshape the body, forget about the binding and paint over it all with a solid colour, so you don't have to worry about re-doing the binding.
Reshape with or without binding is a little too much for me on this my second kit. I am collecting interesting looking timber for a body build in the future, some now sitting and aging in my garage.Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I'm planning on setting the neck "slightly" off centre, move the cone accordingly and the cone cover a little more off centre again. The result should look balanced and the workings still true with the neck.
My real concern is the preamp issue. I'm also reluctant to go with a pedal and hope to get all required within the guitar. I've been talking with FrankenWashie and hope to get direction from him or your good self :-)
Two problems show up today prompting two questions.
I've found the wafer thin bottom of the sound hole has warped (been sitting in a hot room), now the cone doesn't sit correctly, it's resting at two places on bottom.
Given the very thin nature of the material and the cavity between the warped bottom and the ply back of guitar body, is there any reason why I shouldn't use a Stanley Knife and cut the bottom out? This won't weaken the body at all but will make the air volume greater under the cone. Possibly this may give the electric guitar a "slight" acoustic advantage?
The second issue, I assume I'll have to drill a hole through the spider to allow the piezo wire to pass through?
When the piezo sits in the bridge recess I think the wire would have to be bent to an unacceptable level. A hole would allow a less strained cable on it's way to the control cavity.
I've actually just done this very thing with mine, for a similar reason. My concern was aberrant vibration of the wafer thin wood after i had modded things, so i have scored and gradually cut through to leave a void between the main body section and the rear ply top.Two problems show up today prompting two questions.
I've found the wafer thin bottom of the sound hole has warped (been sitting in a hot room), now the cone doesn't sit correctly, it's resting at two places on bottom.
Given the very thin nature of the material and the cavity between the warped bottom and the ply back of guitar body, is there any reason why I shouldn't use a Stanley Knife and cut the bottom out? This won't weaken the body at all but will make the air volume greater under the cone. Possibly this may give the electric guitar a "slight" acoustic advantage?
The second issue, I assume I'll have to drill a hole through the spider to allow the piezo wire to pass through?
When the piezo sits in the bridge recess I think the wire would have to be bent to an unacceptable level. A hole would allow a less strained cable on it's way to the control cavity.
I have similar concerns about the Rod Piezo sitting funny. Not quite sure what to do about that just yet.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Glad we are thinking similarly, with that reassurance I'll open the bottom up to the void.
Re the piezo, from what I've seen online the timber bridge supplied is too thin. I get the idea it should be a close fit into the spider, mine flops about. I think I'll make one that fits more snugly and after a little more consideration drill a hole through the spider to get a relaxed track for the wire.
So where do we run the cable for the cone pick up? Do we cable tie the cable to the spider and penetrate into the control cavity at the closest point? Any ideas?
Yep, that’s what the interwebs tells me. I have run mine down the spider leg, and then put a 1/8” hole in the very corner of the landing for the cone into the cavity.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Bottom cut out from inner body, all good!
I'm lost with the pre-wired pots. I made a sketch of what they supplied, can anybody tell me how to connect the mini-humbucker and peizo?
I understand two options are available,
1, use wiring supplied then out to an acoustic pedal. If somebody can fill in the gaps on my drawing to do this I'd be grateful.
2, find a SMALL acoustic pre-amp and fit on-board. Preferred option but without one at hand no point asking about wiring.
Hi CS, I’ve been trawling through t’Interwebs looking for resources on this. I found some interesting stuff here: http://handmademusicclubhouse.com/ph...ams-schematics
which outlines some basics, and does include one reference to wiring in a pre amp. I’ve been looking for some alternatives on the on board, but so far coming up empty on a standard unit that satisfies my idea to edge mount it. I’ve got a couple of options to consider that might be modifiable to do what I want.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Thanks, that link looks like it covers the basic problem BUT please keep me updated re the "on board" explorations.
I've reached out to a few people both here and in the States for ideas and will happily pass on anything that looks good.
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