I think this is where I start for the diary. Thanks "Rabbit" for pointing me in the right direction.
So without further ado, I will attempt my first build of the Jazz Bass 4.
Initially my first impression of the kit arrival was exciting, and viewing all the components and the neck and body included, I am somewhat less excited but eager to make a start. After going over the body looking for any possible signs of glue marks, dents bad joinery etc, I resided to the final outcome of acceptable, and moved on to the neck checking for straightness and any problems that may be associated with it. There is a slight bow that starts at the 7th fret and a couple of raised frets that will be catered for at the later stages.
Very disappointed to find the neck plate holes are out of alignment to a degree where one will need to be filled and glued and re drilled, also that the plate sits off at an angle ??? I know the kit manufacturer would be using a template and likely a drill press but this looks like the template has slipped off angle and the holes were drill regardless, wheres the QC ?? First impressions, less exciting. Damn what do I do send it back ??? or reach into my work working skills and sort it out myself ????
All kits from what I see in various threads comes with some sort of challenges. They are not fool proof. If you have some wood working skills or willing to learn a few, This could be a great start of the problems you see are correctable.
I have had 2 kits from Pitbull ( 1 is a replacement for 1st one) both had different set of problems. Sometimes these misses the QC at pitbull as they cannot practically build a mock guitar and forsee problems that we encounter. I believe people at pitbull check only the quantities of parts listed before shipping
Thats why this forum is a blessing. There are great souls here who help with their expertise to make people like me dream of building my own guitar.
So If you want to take on the challenge, i Wish you well. Happy building.
Thanks for input. I have been working as trade assistant for many years, I have a few skills in my pocket and will likely rectify the issue myself. Tassy oak dowel for the holes and exterior grade PVA will do the job, unfortunately I sold my drill press a couple of years ago so will do an ask around if anyone in the neighbor hood would be kind enough to let me use it, of course this will mean setting up a jig to keep the neck level and steady while I drill new holes. Not a good start, this will set me back awhile.
Just about any build problem can be fixed with a chisel, a chainsaw or a hammer........
I too had to abandon my drill press when I moved, along with a bunch of other convenient tools. I solved my big boys toys deficit (I know, not very PC phrasing) by joining a Men's Shed.
If you’ve got a mains-powered drill, then a drill stand will help. They aren’t expensive and whilst not as rigid as a drill press, are better than hand drilling.
Are any of the current four holes in a place they could be reused? I’d put the neck plate in the pocket (rather than on the back) and see how it sits using each hole in turn as to which one is best. If you have two that line up, then that’s even better news. Just plug the holes that can’t be re-used.
I’d be thinking about getting a sheet of MDF or ply that you could rest on the back of the body and place a drill stand on. Use the neck plate to pre-drill 4 holes in the MDF, then bolt through the good hole(s). You’d need to find a way of lining up the holes with the body correctly, but then you can use the holes as a template to drill through. Which means that if the neck has holes in it, they’ll also need to be plugged and redrilled later.
The body holes are often undersized as they use the same drill to drill through into the neck. The body holes need to be enlarged to be the same size as the neck screws, so they just fit through without binding at all. If the screws have to screw through the body first, then they can hit the neck plate and stop moving, leaving the neck not fully pulled against the body.
I did have a drill stand for many years, actually it use to belong to my father, skill shear brand, wasn't too bad either did the job but only fitted the skill shear electric drill, until I bought a drill press, now that's gone. I will have look at Bunnings see what they have, maybe an Ozito drill press, or buy swap and sell local market, tight dollars. I would have to set up table and a jig for resting the neck on so to keep it 90degrees to the drill bit. Making a template from the neck plate wont be an issue, easy done. I knew it wouldn't be perfect but didnt expect that.
The Chinese kit factories aren’t very good at drilling holes. The ones in the headstocks are notorious for being out of line and unequal distances apart. It would often be better if they didn’t drill the holes at all! You could then at least choose your own hole size to suit the tuners you want to fit.
I’ve drilled the neck holes by hand before, never seemed to have been a problem.
I plugged the one neck hole that was furthest out from the others and tried lining the others up to accept the screws, sits too off angle, I wont be happy till i've straightened it out completely. Very frustrating but nothing that cant be fixed just holds up the rest of the process. Sent to test me.
Ok pushing along, Ive now completely reset the neck screw holes and have the neck plate sitting right where I want it. Set the neck and marked up the bridge to center and using the 34 inch scale. Nut to 12th fret center, 17inches 34 inches to center of bridge adjuster wound out at 5mm just in case I need to wind in to lower the action and adjust intonation. I used painters tape for layout of the bridge markings and center of neck using my trusty straight edge. I have strung the E and G strings to check alignment on both sides of the neck and have a very nice 6mm on both sides running up the neck. Very low action at this point and a bit of fret buzzing as expected.So far so good Im am liking that neck is indeed very true and the fret buzzing will be cater for with a bit of adjustment on the truss rod. As soon as I get the picture thing worked out I will post my progress, anyone here know how to reduce the picture sizes ???]
I have decided to change out the tuners that came with the kit, they are a very flimsy arrangement, although I did order black hardwear the tuners I opted for another set I bought for another Bass years ago but never used them, essentially a better quality and very direct sturdy and responsive turning, Custom Eagles K20. The holes in the headstock are slightly too large for the inserts but found the ones that came with the kit fitted by pressing and opted to use those along with the Custom Eagles, great fit. So now even though the eagles are chrome polished the kit inserts are black !!! Which I was a little hesitant about but now they are on there don't look bad. Something a little different. Considering to color the headstock black so I think the inserts will fit in with it well.
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