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Thread: Locating the bridge on a YB-4

  1. #1

    Locating the bridge on a YB-4

    Just received my YB-4 kit but I am stumped. Setting the neck properly requires lining up the two outside strings but that needs a bridge for the other end of the strings. But without locating the bridge I can't secure the strings so I can't set the neck. Kinda like the chicken/egg conundrum.
    I thought about roughly locating the bridge, set the neck and then relocating the bridge after plugging any erroneous holes.
    Is there a better way?
    I hope I made my question clear.

  2. #2
    The neck and bridge positioning juggling act is often a case of what works best for you, and what works for a particular build.

    For my YB-4 I first positioned and attached the neck. Once that was finalised I could work on positioning the bridge for scale length and alignment. Using clamps with strips of wood can secure the bridge well enough to get your position sorted. Note: I’m using an aftermarket bridge, so it’s a little further back than the stock bridge would sit.

    Alternatively, you can just clamp the neck in place when you’re doing the positioning of the bridge etc. That way you can adjust either ‘end’ to fine tune the alignment of the strings along the neck and with the pickup poles, scale length, bridge adjustment range etc. The main thing is to take your time, triple-check all your measurements and alignments, post photos if you’re unsure about something… and always check and mark your drill bit depth before drilling.
    Scott.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by WeirdBits View Post
    The neck and bridge positioning juggling act is often a case of what works best for you, and what works for a particular build.

    For my YB-4 I first positioned and attached the neck. Once that was finalised I could work on positioning the bridge for scale length and alignment. Using clamps with strips of wood can secure the bridge well enough to get your position sorted. Note: I’m using an aftermarket bridge, so it’s a little further back than the stock bridge would sit.
    Ditto. I used the YB-4 as the base of my axe bass and did pretty much the same thing.

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Always start with the neck.

    Drill out the neck screw holes in the body so they are the same diameter as the neck screws. You don't want the screws biting into the body, just the neck.

    I'd screw the neck on before positioning the bridge. Whilst you can clamp it to position the bridge, the final neck position can vary just a fraction more if you clamp.

    You don't need to position the bridge before applying the finish if you don't want to, which saves having more holes to worry about if wet sanding.

  5. #5
    Thanks. I came to the conclusion I was over thinking this. Words of wisdom given to me long ago (by myself) were "JUST DO IT!!!" . Words to live by.

    Since I bought the cheapest kit I could find meaning to make it different than a store bought clone, my first thought was just sawing off the ubiquitous humdrum horns. But now................

    My idea is to make a fretless bass. But I have never seen/played a fretless bass (I have fumbled with a fiddle). Just wondering about string clearance above the finger board or any other things I should bear in mind .
    My plan is to just file the frets down to flush (which I think would look cool) or yanking them out and filling in the slots.
    Any thoughts? Otherwise I will"JUST DO IT!!!.

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