Hi guys, I have a kit that came with a 2 post tremolo with a post spacing of around 60mm. I was thinking of running it until it needed replacing. Only problem is it there doesn't seem to be anything like it with a 60mm spacings they are all 56mm.
Does anyone know a manufacture that makes a 60mm spacing trem or am I better off fitting the 6 screw Fender type one? That's if the saddle heights are the same. Thanks, Rod.
What’s the saddle string spacing on that trem? Just wondering if that’s wider than normal as well.
Depending on where you're at with the build, would it be worth just plugging the holes and re-drilling to 56mm?
It would really open up your options now and in future.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
10.5mm Simon.
I'm thinking the same McCreed. I have to drill the post holes yet so all good there. Might even go for the 6 screw one if it measures up..
From searching the web, it seems Squier use a 60mm post spacing (or even 63mm - I've seen both figures used) but that's about it. And I don't think you can get Squier bridges easily, and I doubt they'd be better than your current one.
I prefer the wider spacing as it moves the posts outward a bit and more of the post is supported by the full thickness of the body.
But to get a better quality bridge, plugging and redrilling will be the best option. Just be careful to fully support the underside of the trem claw route when putting the post inserts in, or you could end up doing what I did:
Also, you need to check the depth of the inserts against the depth of the body, as you don't want the posts poking through the bottom of the trem claw cavity as the dimensions of your kit may not be the same as those of a Fender. I filed down my inserts to give me a 2mm thickness at the bottom of the holes. You may also need to file down the end of the posts so they don't push through the wood if the posts end up sitting really low in the shortened inserts.
Last edited by Simon Barden; 19-05-2021 at 04:55 PM.
Great tips there Simon...thanks! Just checked and the inserts are 22mm long and the guitar body where they go into is 20mm.
Thanks again Simon..
I've seen some Wilkinson 2-point trems quoted as fitting 53mm to 63mm post spacing, but I don't see how that's physically possible.
https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkins...ome_p_895.html
The bass side semi-circular notch determines where the bridge will sit in relation to the guitar centreline. It will be designed for a 56mm post spacing. so if you try and fit it on a 60mm post spacing, the bottom E saddle will sit 2mm further towards the bass side, bulling all the strings across the neck at an angle. The flat blade pivot on the treble side might mean you don't need to be as accurate with your post positioning on that side, but the bas side post needs to be in just the right position. Which with pre-drilled 60mm spacing it won't be.
To be suitable for a wide range of post spacings, you'd need to be able to move the saddles sideways. And as there's only a single plate with screw holes through it for locating the saddles, you can't do that. You'd need two plates, one sitting on top of the other, with the saddles affixed to the top plate and the top plate able to slide sideways over the bottom plate and be fixed down firmly.
The holes haven't been drilled yet Simon, so I'm ok there. I have to work out how much tolerance to give the insert holes. I saw that Wilkinson one you mentioned. As you said, I can't work out how they can get that 10mm adjustment when the pivot holes are set in the trem.
I'm still thinking the 6 screw trem might be better. Just have to clamp in the neck and see how high the saddles need to be.
My inserts (Wilkinson) measured 9.8mm wide over the splines. I read somewhere on-line that a 'letter' series 'S' drill was the right one for hard woods (about 9.35mm dia), So I bought one of those (expensive) but that was too small, so I used a 9.5mm drill. The insert went in very tightly (despite the wood splitting) and I definitely needed my stud puller to remove it. You really want the hole size to match the diameter of the solid part of the inserts, so it's just the splines that are forced into the wood otherwise you increase the risk of the wood splitting, though with a softer wood than Ash like Basswood, you can compress it a bit more.
Last edited by Simon Barden; 19-05-2021 at 06:43 PM.
Thanks again Simon. I will check the size with the calipers tomorrow..
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