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So it's been a while since I've had some time to work on this project, finally got around to routing out the body for the tail piece.

Picked up a nice piece of sheoak from The Timber Bloke...

You're a thinkin man!

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A lesson I learned with the resin... I added blue glitter to the mix, you know, just coz awesomeness factor.

Turns out that heavy particles like glitter just sink to the bottom while it sets.
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Thanks Marty, I just hope the machine heads don't look too bulky on the thinner head once it's all assembled

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I forgot to mention, I used a shinto medium/fine rasp for shaping the headstock.

Seriously, these things are freaking awesome! If you haven't got one yet, get one!

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So I've sanded back the body to 1200g, shaped the headstock and given both a coat of clear resin. I was going to do a gloss black for the body but I think the clear resin still come out better.
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Yea right, getting my son to do manual labour is like pulling teeth!

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Ok I haven't had a chance to sand back the body yet, but I have done a mock up to show how the body will look with the scratch plate and bridge in place...

Was thinking of doing a gloss black for...

So my son's 9th birthday is coming up at the end of this month and he's looking to start music lessons at his new school, and what kind of father would I be if I didn't get the little bugger his very...

I was planning on taking a ride over there maybe next weekend to find a good bit of sheoak for my tailpiece.

Let me know what you're looking for.

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It's totally worth taking a drive down to Naval Base to check out their stock. They've got a pretty good range of timber in the showroom, the pricing on the rough cut timber is really good

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I've got a local timber supplier in perth (The Timber Bloke) that I get sheoak from, I'm happy to help you find a suitable piece... but what are the regulations on posting wood interstate?

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It's a beautiful wood to work with, but probably too heavy to build a body from.

I've done a couple of tests with resin coating scrap pieces and it comes out with a tiger's eye kind of...

I have some left over pieces of sheoak timber from when I made my dining table last year and that stuff just looks amazing when finish it so I figured it would make a great veneer for my bass head. ...

If you're feeling game after your routing experience, you could cut the perspex with the dremel...

Hey mate, not sure what happened but I can't see the photos you attached

I only thought about the inlays AFTER I placed the order for a custom kit. I should have told them no inlays... live and learn, just means I'll have to learn a stone new skills to correct it

Yea that was my thought too...

On the bright side, since i plan on making my own bridge it means I can think about using an angled bridge to get a 35" B scale.

Ok so I've just discovered something that will be irritating down the line...

I'm measuring out the scale length for bridge design and found that the fretboard side inlays are not placed correctly...

When you get a chance, it would be good to see what your doing with the jack input. Chances are I may have the same issue but I don't have the hardware on hand to confirm it yet.

Thanks Marty, it's actually not that hard. This is a photo of the nut I caused for my Cort 5 string fretless. I used a pen block that I got online, I figured with buloke being so strong it was ideal...

Ok so after waiting 6 months... I finally got my order a couple of weeks ago!!

Doesn't appear to be any issues with the neck fitting. I bought it without the stock hardware because I don't want...

Keen to see what direction you go with your IB-5 build, I just received my fretless neck and body kit a few weeks ago (didn't order stock hardware)... felt like the longest 6 months of my life!

Cheers Paul, I may go with the same tuners you used.

Thanks for the input Sonic, that's exactly why I'm here. I'll have to spend a weekend doing the rounds in perth music stores to see if there are any basses with alumitones... I don't like my chances...