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Any new full OS install is normally very stable to start with. It’s once it’s had various new programs and updates installed that things start to slow down a bit and get a bit glitchy due to...

Probably down to money and guitars.

I'd also note that the bridge doctor has a screw at the back of the bridge to hold the block in place. That might be an idea, as it could be hard to hold the rear of your under-top block on firmly...

I'm no expert on this, I'm only making (what I think are reasonable) suggestions, so please go ahead and do what you think reasonable.

I'd just suggest having a bit of a flat top to the ...

For me, that would still be a high action, though I expect it might come down a bit with lower nut slots.

If the top stays as it is but just the neck bends, then that should be able to be...

Doc has now been playing video games for over 24 hours constantly, and can't move away from the PC for being surrounded by pizza boxes.

So, no change at all.

You could just epoxy the inserts in place. Probably preferable to screws. Just don't forget to fit the bridge grounding wire first!

The tuning peg is mounted so that it's on the side of the...

I feel you'd probably still want something to stop the insert turning when you a) insert the screws from the rear and b) insert the posts from the top.

You can get longer post inserts, though they...

It's also a good idea to sand an angle onto the forward facing end of the bridge pins. This stops the ball-ends being caught so that they sit on the bottom of the bridge pin and not against the top....

All as expected! Good news.

The extra treble is letting you hear what the cap is doing, but it does sound like it's a bit too far up the frequency range to be useful as a tone control. I'd try...

You want the flat edge to just rest on the neck,/frets, not touching the nut at all. You may now have taken too much height off the bridge, though if the string tension lifts the top up, then things...

Hi Jason and welcome.

I suppose one way to do it is the empirical way, and get hold of some of the long strings and see what you have to play with.

The string break angle can be quite severe...

Almost in line with the rear point on the MM, but not quite. Yours looks slightly more offset by a few mm.

I held off on the extra clear coats yesterday as there were a couple of runs that I needed to let harden before sanding flat. Off seeing friends over from Sydney shortly until Monday, so work should...

You then need an 'Alien' to 'Vs' against.

No, scrape, not file! ;)

Almost merges into the background!

Is it finished yet? Apart from tuners and strings, how much more to do?

It's very hard to say whether the guitar can be made playable without having it in one's own hands.

First off I'd say go easy on the boiled linseed oil. Yes, a lot of people do use it for oiling...

I'll try that next time then. Thanks!

Lots of touching up round the edges to hide the binding, sanding back, then a bit more touching up. Need to let the paint dry for a couple of days before each sanding so it's hard enough to sand...

Yes, probably too smooth a surface. 120 or 180 grit should do it on the bottom of the heel. Maple has less pores/crevices than the body wood, so you need to make it a bit rough.

I know the feeling. It's often one step forward, two steps back if you want end up with a really good guitar.

What colour was the glue? Titebond is yellow-white,. Standard PVA is white, ...

No I haven't. But I do have scrapers.

I probably should have used a finer grit disk, or at least gone over it with successive finer grits. The main issue was not being able to see the marks on...

I suppose the question is whether the pocket floor and pocket heel were both flat, so you got maximum contact between the two. Sometimes, the tenon extension can curve upwards, giving a gap...

Yesterday I sanded back the top and got rid of the sanding marks. I then tried spray shellac as a sealer. Worked well and got a very nice level surface, but it had highlighted some more sanding...