I'll second that. It has its place, but not on any finish. Those steel fibres really dig in and are impossible to see unless you are in really strong light (e.g. outside on a bright day), when they...
Type: Posts; User: Simon Barden
I'll second that. It has its place, but not on any finish. Those steel fibres really dig in and are impossible to see unless you are in really strong light (e.g. outside on a bright day), when they...
I do find that figured ebony tends to have less visible grain than the all-black stuff.
Rust sounds like you used wire wool, as the nickel silver fret dust shouldn’t rust as such, but may go a dull grey (and blow away) If you use wire wool for polishing, then a pass with a strong magnet...
Yes, it’s ebony. Ebony can be naturally very smooth indeed. Like rosewood, there are different varieties of ebony and whilst they all have a much smoother surface than rosewood, some have no...
Too famous for this forum, for sure. ;)
Bass.
38739
It's going to be so light, you'll need to tie weights to it to stop it floating away!
I think you'll find the 'IC-1 custom' is a custom MBM-1. Definitely not an Iceman-style.
Nice work. It's worth spraying a light mist coat and sanding it evenly flat with sandpaper from a roll stuck to a flat plank of wood to get rid of any dips and high spots. The spray just allows you...
I you did fill in the trem cavity, I'd use epoxy rather than Titebond, but yes, a T-shaped block fitting in from the top would be a good idea. You'd want to rout out/enlarge the cavity slightly...
It seems a weird idea, fitting a poorer trem on a guitar that wasn't designed for it just for the looks. There are some mods worth making on a low-cost guitar, but this certainly isn't one of them....
The finish on that guitar is pretty thick, but you'll add weight back on with any new finish, so you might want to think about reducing the weight by reducing the thickness by maybe 3mm. I'd simply...
They are on the 35hz instruction pdf on that page.1.5" x 3.5" x0.88" (H) 38.1 x 88.9 x 22.3mm
https://www.emgpickups.com/pub/media/Mageants/3/5/35hz_instructions.pdf
I'll be different and say I like the guard. Gives it that Explorer Jr vibe.
And now you'll have to get a matching guitar to put inside it.
[QUOTE=JimC;207096]With mobile phone apps and cheap reference microphones it's easier than it's ever been to do this stuff.../QUOTE]
The terms 'cheap' and 'reference microphone' simply don't go...
Not at all sure where you're coming from there, Jim. The way you describe it, you have a hole that you then fill with dowel, and then you drill all the dowel out again. So you end up with the same...
The bridge is a 'floating' bridge, so just sits on top of the guitar and is held in place by string pressure. If you find it moves about once you've positioned it for location and intonation, then...
The tone pot has two connections and is being used as a variable resistor (unlike the volume pot which is wired as a potential divider and has three connections). The tone circuit is the variable...
The block you see is all there is, nothing extra. As Woltz says, there's a dovetail insert in the block that needs to be made to fix the neck into, but that's it.
Very nice work, sir.
Nice finish. Reminds me of some 1980s Washburns, the EC29 and EC36, though on a closer look, the painting technique was very different but with a quite similar end result.
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As long as it's not too high, saw a few ohms, then it won't make much difference.
Let's say the output signal is 0.3v/300mV. That's running into a typical guitar amp input impedance of 1meg ohms....
I've been looking around for reviews on the carbon-based wire glue. None were overly technical; a couple roughly measured the resistance but none tested the strength of the glue.
Being...
I really can't believe you said that, given all the fuss you made about securing the bridge on the ESB-4!
If this really is a stop bar hole, then there is a hell of a lot of force on the stop bar...