Well, this one has been on the back burner for quite a while. I ended up buying a replacement body from PB, so that's all good.
Just getting going on it again, and I'm struggling to get a nice fit...
Type: Posts; User: jonwhitear
Well, this one has been on the back burner for quite a while. I ended up buying a replacement body from PB, so that's all good.
Just getting going on it again, and I'm struggling to get a nice fit...
I’m going to enjoy this! Will you be building with the stock components, or do you have other plans?
Very nice.
Yes, the whole body has bowed, so the back is convex. Clamping it sounds like a good idea.
Here's the bow:
42794
Hello, all
Just about to start my fifth build, a TL-1TB.
42793
The guys at PBG kindly let me swap the standard neck for one with dot position markers.
So far, my plans are to finish in a...
I haven't used BLO, so can't really comment on how it compares to TO. I'd say a reasonable number of coats is as many as you want to do - if you're just wanting to seal the wood, rather than aiming...
OK, no need to really get the neck bow solved now - having said that, I'd try to resolve the bow a little, if just to give myself confidence that the truss rod is working. You don't want to set the...
Cool, thanks. Rather more significant surgery than I had thought ;-).
That's really nice. I've been looking out for a kit that approximates an acoustasonic for a while. From your description, it sounds like the finished instrument is quite a long way from the initial...
Agreed, though I'd be surprised if they are. I find that necks usually need the corners of the heel rounded off to make them seat in the pocket nicely. If that's the case here, then even if the neck...
I wouldn't worry about the nut until you're ready to do a setup. Having said that, I haven't shaped a nut from a blank before ;-) Anyway, you can't really get it close until you've got strings on, so...
Welcome Swisher48.
I have stained a maple neck and then finished with Tru Oil. It works just fine. I used Feast Watson - I think it may have been very week Golden Teak. It's useful to keep the...
If you've already finished it, the easiest option would be to shim the neck - a thin shim in the neck pocket will tilt the neck backwards, lowering the action.
Thank you Trevor, and congrats to you as well. I had completely missed these results being posted, and only realized this morning when I got a PM from Adam about judging the next month!
It's just everyone's personal preference, so don't worry. My preference is to put all questions in my build diary, and if I'm not getting much traction there, then start a separate, more specific...
Thanks for posting that Waz, it's quite a fascinating watch.
No. 1 for me. I like the way the darker wood seems to flow from the neck joint around the hardware. As Trevor said, they're all going to look great.
Yup. Timbermate sands easily, so you won't need to put much effort in. (I think) I use 240 grit. Make sure to use a block (ideally quite a big one) so that your surface is nice and flat. You may well...
I've got some "authentic" '72 re-issue cardboard, if anybody needs it, at reasonable cost. Also available in a relic finish to deliver that authentic aesthetic as well as that '70s tone, for a...
Lucky you! I'll be following this with interest, as I have one of these waiting for me to start.
Excellent!
That looks to me like your crowing file isn't wide enough for the frets. I'm looking at the end profile of the fret that has tape on both sides, and I can see a groove on the left hand side.
I...
Looks like a pretty good fit to me. I can't see a gap between the heel and the floor of the pocket, so it looks like it's seated well. It's the gap on the treble E side between the board and the...
Yes, I've been thinking about those. On guitar like Glen's DSC-1, do you think it'll look odd with nickel pickup covers and chrome stop bar and bridge?
In the past I've bought Tonerider humbuckers...