Originally Posted by
McCreed
Johnny, just double check the depth of your control cavity route and be sure you'll have enough clearance for a CRL-type switch.
Especially if you plan on shielding the cavities.
I don't recall the cavity depth on the PBG TL's nor whether I had to route mine deeper. My point is some non-fender bodies are a bit shallower than genuine and solder lugs on the switch can make contact with the cavity floor and cause a short (if shielded).
IIRC, you need a minimum of 35mm, but check that against the switch you buying.