Just caught up with this thread. Looking the goods Jeffo
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Just caught up with this thread. Looking the goods Jeffo
Nice even coverage there, Should look great.
You used painters tape so it should pull away nice and cleanly, I would probably do it before the paint gets super hard. So when its gone off enough to handle gently. Pull it up so it pulls away from the paint edge (will be tricky) not back towards the painted surface (If that makes sense) and it should be apples.
Fingers crossed for you.
So the tape came off the body relatively easy, but what I’m not impressed with is the bloody fingerboard coming off with the tape!!!
I don’t know if this is the standard of the new Blackwood, but I’m a bit pissed! I took my time and this happened. I even tried removing the tape from the other direction.
I’m at a loss as to what I do as I need to mask it again to clear coat.
Can these grooves be filled?
What the...? The paint peeled up the fretboard wood? I've never had that happen with rosewood...
Nah mate! The tape pulled the grain of the timber off!! It was only on for about a week, and it hasn’t even been hot.
That shouldn't happen with black wood or any other timber. I wonder if the adhesive off the tape has reacted with the glues in the " Engineered Blackwood". I would fill with ebony timbermate and finish with fingerboard oil.
Off to Bunnings
Oh Crap!
That's a real shame. I think JB is right though, you can fill and resurface and it won't be a problem, just an extra job to be done.
Definitely a possibility that the glue reacted with the glue in the composite wood (I'm guessing that's what 'engineered black wood' is) but usually painters tape is very non reactive and clean removing.
Otherwise looks like the binding edge is nice and sharp, so that's a win.