Making progress slowly but surely
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Making progress slowly but surely
Struggling today
When I try to add them from the photo library - they say they are too large (on the iPad)
Can’t seem to find the upload button on the iphone
If you download Tapatalk, and set up the byog forum it will give you standardised size options to upload your snaps.
otherwise you’ve got to resize to less than 1500 pixels per longest side to get them up.
Alternatively you can use an image hosting site like Imgur and then link the images into your post - bit of a run through below.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8108
Have used a beautiful water based grain filler. Timber mate ebony. Came out great on the front and back.
There are a couple of white spots on the front on the side that wouldn’t take the colour.
Is there a simple solution?
Thanks.
Dk
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The most common reason that wood won't absorb pigment seems to be glue. I think you might have some along the edge as well as down the seam in the middle. Goof-Off or similar product work very well. I have a can of the professional strength but I bet the regular strength would work too.
I'm sure it'll look very nice when it's all done.
Nearly there. Have put the electronics in. Is there a clever way to hide the wires - they can be seen clearly https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d42af6d0e1.jpg the ‘f’s on my semi-hollow. Thnx
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The best way is to make a wiring harness where the wires are stiff and as short as possible. Using the thin kit wire and leaving long lengths between pots makes it hard to hide.
Start by making up a cardboard template for the pot/switch/jack hole locations. Use some paper to trace out the hole positions (and the f-hole) then stick that on a piece of cardboard. Make holes in the cardboard for the pots and jacks etc to go through. The pots etc. need to go through from the rear (otherwise when you come to take everything off the card you'll find it's all the wrong way round). You can then put the nuts and washers on to keep them in place. You now have everything positioned as when it will be attached to the guitar. Cut out the F-hole shape so you can see where you have to avoid having wires run.
This now allows you to wire up between the pots and jacks and switch using short lengths of wire. I'd use stiffer, thicker wire than the kit wire as it helps keep everything in its relative place. I always use vintage style push-back wire because its both fairly stiff and you just push back the cloth to expose the wire ends - no need for insulation removal. You can allow a few extra mm of length to allow for some movement when fitting the pots inside, but you really don't need much extra.
It's then a case of wiring up, and running wires around the F-hole. I tape together wires running in parallel for some extra stiffness.
A tricky bit is cutting the pickup leads to a suitable length. The bridge pickup lead needs to run straight down, avoiding the front of the f-hole then bending round to get to the bridge volume pot below the f-hole. This might be easier if you drill a new hole to the control cavity at the front of the pickup rout, as the normal hole is at the rear and closer to the F-hole.
The neck pickup lead needs to run horizontally over the top of the f-hole to the neck volume pot. This lead can be tightened by pulling it back into the pickup cavity and fixing it with some tape (if necessary). Not too tight, just enough to stop it drooping.
If you don't want to do all that, then the only other way I can think of is trying to stick the wires out the way with bits of tape - though this is likely to come off after a while.
Thanks so much - that’s really helpful
Ok. So I have put it all together - and there is sound coming out of the amp “phew”
The action feels a mile off. Help!!!!
It actually feels very high right at the first fret (remember - this is a 12 string).
Have tried playing around at the bridge ...but I think it might be the truss or the neck
Any ideas.
Thnx.
Daniel
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That looks very nice indeed!
High action at the 1st fret means that the nut string slots aren't cut deep enough.
You have the options of:
1) Removing the nut, filing the bottom down a bit, put it back (without glueing), string up again to tension, then see how it feels. Repeat until it's low enough to play properly. If you file too much off, either stick a piece of veneer under the nut, or buty another nut and repeat the process.
2) Buying some nut files and cut the slots to the right depth yourself. Worthwhile if you plan on making several more guitars, but a good set will cost you around AUD$200 or more.
3) Take it to a luthier to set up. A decent one will do it without any questions. A poor one will say they don't work on kit guitars (it does happen).
You may well also need to adjust the truss rod and maybe even level the frets to get a really good action. It's all fairly easy stuff, but fret levelling again requires purchasing some appropriate specialist tools. Cost-effective and satisfying if you plan to make more guitars, but for a single guitar finding a luthier is a better option. Or there may be a forum member with the skills and kit fairly near you (where are you?), whom I'm sure would be glad to help.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...32b28d1fba.jpg
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Thanks so much. I am in Randwick Sydney. I will post something general to see if someone wants to help me out.
My next problem is the pick up height.
Per the above photos, my neck pick up is sitting nice and low. But my bridge pick up is very close to the strings. When I am on the amp - the sound is very different from the two pick ups.
What sort of distance should they be sitting apart from the strings?
Thnx
Dk
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Probably 2-3mm for a humbucker with the strings pressed down at the highest fret.
It's OK to lower the humbucker so that it's level with the top of the ring, but you don't want it any lower.
You may need to take the ring off and sand it down. Just put sandpaper face up on top of the guitar where the pickup goes and rub away. The profile will then be right, so you don't get any gaps between the bottom of the ring and the guitar.
Thanks mate. Am all done. Looks and sounds amazing. I thoroughly enjoyed this project. Thank you for all the support along the way - what an amazing community. Am doing the Bigsby Hollow-body next.
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