Which Spray Can Clear Coat???

Hi all,

I find myself in a dilemma about what clear coat to use and would appreciate any advise you may have.

I am planning to use rit dye for the maple veneer on my guitar body and duplicolor acrylic lacquer spray can paint for the sides and back. I thought of using Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer Gloss Nitro from GuitarAust but then also read about recommendations for the WhiteKnight Crystal Clear Acrylic Gloss. Are there any compatibility issues between these clear coats and the duplicolor paint? I would have gone for Behlen, but I can’t justify $35 a can as it is not something I’ll use often, unless it is much superior in the end result. The White Knight is available at Bunnings for $15.

Any other brands any of you have used or may recommend. Thanks.

I've been getting good results using SuperCheapAuto (SCA) clear gloss.
Somebody reported that it doesn't dry properly, however after several guitar projects, I'm yet to see it.
Only yesterday I purchased a can and it was reduced to $8.00.

I've had problems with Feast & Watson wipe-on-poly not adhering to some paints.

I've also used Cabot's Exterior Gloss and had the same issue with it.

cheers, Mark.

Duplicolor perfect match is acrylic lacquer, you should be fine using another lacquer for clear. That's what I'm planning to do, with Minwax clear.

Don't use poly, and I've read tru-oil isn't compatible either.

I prefer Septone Clear Coat (acrylic lacquer - also available at SCA) over the Duplicolor Clear. The Septone goes over the Duplicolor base coat just fine. Not had any compatibility issues.

I can't remember why I didn't like the Duplicolor Clear (it was quite a while ago) but I know I was happier with the result when I switched to Septone and have just continued to use it. Never tried the SCA brand clear.

I put Cabot's Cabothane Clear Satin on the neck and it's exactly what I wanted. Looks and feels fantastic. 3 costs and that's about it. I've got the same Cabothane but Gloss on the head stock and for the body. Not sold on the gloss but It's early days.

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Originally Posted by McCreed

I prefer Septone Clear Coat (acrylic lacquer - also available at SCA) over the Duplicolor Clear. The Septone goes over the Duplicolor base coat just fine. Not had any compatibility issues.

I can't remember why I didn't like the Duplicolor Clear (it was quite a while ago) but I know I was happier with the result when I switched to Septone and have just continued to use it. Never tried the SCA brand clear.

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Septone flows better and has better coverage IMO.

Thank you all for your responses. Looks like it’s between the SCA and Septone clear then.

On another note, what procedure do you follow for coating and sanding. For example with nitro, you don’t really have to sand as one layer melts into the other. For these automotive clear coats, would you do 3 coats a day, 10-15 mins apart, until satisfied?

Also would you sand each coat before applying the next, or sand every 3 coats or so?

I sand every few coats, just to knock off bits of dust or bugs. Also, +1 for SCA or septone paint, great stuff.

I'll spray about 5-6 coats at a rate of one per day.
Probably only about 3-4 on the sides.
Then hit it with 400 grit sandpaper to reduce the 'orange peel' divots.
Out with the Sandpaper man micro-mesh pads with Mequiers ultimate compound.

cheers, Mark.

Also my current build has binding on it. Is it alright to spray the clear coat over the binding, or should I mask it off?

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Also my current build has binding on it. Is it alright to spray the clear coat over the binding, or should I mask it off?

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Presuming you have dyed or painted the back & sides already, clear coat right over the binding.

What about a satin or matte clear coat?

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Originally Posted by christodav

What about a satin or matte clear coat?

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Hi Mate
Iv'e had great success with a product, also from Bunnings, Bondall Monocel clear varnish in satin straight onto the wood as a sealer and ive then been able to over coat it with acrylic laquer without any problems. I used it on my neck, gave it 3 coats, a light sand with 400, another 3 coats and another light sand with 400, and to finish off, two coats and it looks like a factory finish. then i sprayed acrylic base coat on the headstock, first 3 light coats of colour, then 4 coats of acrylic clear, rub down and another 3 coats of clear, then wet rub with 1500 and polish,the finished result is like glass,but now iv'e changed my mind, and are going to put my brand sticker on as well, so i will rub it with 1500 again, apply the sticker then 4 coats of clear rub down with 1500 again, and keep repeating until you cant feel the sticker and it appears to be floating in the clearcoat. This is from my knowledge as an automotive spraypainter and spraying motorcycle tanks that are clearcoated over their stickers
Good luck
Andrew

Lloydy, does the Bodall come in rattle cans?

That's what the OP was asking, and presumably christodav.

However, I'm interested in the the info you posted. I haven't used that product, so what turps/varnish ratio are you mixing with that?
And what are your drying & re-coat times?

Thanks,
Mick