Thinline TL-1TB

Hi Folks,

New here, first kit, excited, full of questions. Looking forward to some useful info and chat.

I'm using a TL-1TB as the basis for my build, but plan to make some changes along the way.

After unboxing and inspection, I've got a few questions that I can't seem to resolve from available info:

1. Simple questions:

Scale length and fretboard radius - can't find these in delivery documentation. Anyone know what they are?

2. More complex question:

The neck sits quite high in the neck pocket - I'm guessing 5-7 mm of neck maple is showing below the rosewood fretboard. I gather this is common and many people route the next pocket, but with a bigsby kit I gather the neck pocket has a breakover angle, so not quite sure how to proceed. How much neck should show and if I need to, how would I route on an angle? Is it just as easy to route square then shim?

Hopefully you smart folks can point me in the right direction...

Standard Fender 648mm/25.5" Scale length, 12" fretboard radius.

You shouldn't need to put the neck on an angle. People fit bigsbys to Teles quite often, what bridge are you going to use?

They do sit a bit high in the pocket, but not by much, they can be assembled as is and still work fine.

OK Folks,

Scratch the simple questions. I found neck specs:

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...kits-22-frets/

25.5 inch scale, 12 inch radius

Thanks Sonic,

I was thinking the same as you.

I'll be happier if it sits a little further down, so I'll route square then shim to taste (if required to get an angle) I'll know more after I complete the pre-build bit of care in setup / prebuild

The kit came with a tune-o-matic bridge. I think these probably sit a bit higher than a traditional tele bridge, so one option is to convert over to a hard tail and grind away the back edge. Plenty of in online about that. Of course, i'll need to fill the holes where the Tune--matic posts go.

Choices, choices, choices..

OK, time for an update gents. I have made a lot of progress over the past few weeks, although still a long way to go!

Design decisions:

1. Switch from tune-o-matic bridge to tele style 3-saddle bridge (ground out to allow for bigsby string clearance). Requires adjusted neck height and break angle to suit this change, and a new cavity for ground wire to bridge...
2. Jettison pickup surrounds and hard-mount the pickups. Requires adjusted depth of pickup cavity route to allow for this mounting method.
3. Ditch chrome strip control panel / original pickguard and go for a more 'thinline' approach to pickguard and switch positioning. Requires a new design pickguard and larger control cavity on the lower bout.
4. Go for a switchcraft pickup selector rather than traditional tele style. Allows me to avoid slotting the pickguard - bound to be a disaster!
5. Route a 6mm rounded edge to the rear of the body. Requires a different jack mount - recessed into the body side.
6. Upgrade to quality Bourne pots and Switchcraft jack.
7. Colour scheme - inspired by this La Grange Sultan (in black):

http://lagrange.guitars/guitars/modelsultan/
Attachment 30528


So far, I've been able to achieve the following, and I'm pretty pleased with results:

- Cut the headstock (strat style)
- Refined the carve on the neck at the headstock and heel ends, for more comfort
- Adjusted the fit of the neck pocket and the heel, to reduce height of the fingerboard and adjust the break angle
- Plugged the body with dowels where I won't be using the TOM bridge
- Routed the pickup cavity
- Routed the control cavity
- Routed the rear edge of the body
- Design for the pickguard
- Sourced the components I need
- Several trial builds at various times, to check on fit, alignment, etc.

I've come across a couple of issues, but the main one at present is the 22nd fret - it was fitted poorly at the factory and so the tang was bent and it sat very high - too high to dress:

Attachment 30529

I've managed to remove it, clean out the fret slot and straighten the fret (a bit). But the fret is a bit loose in the slot.

Question: What is the best way to refit the fret? I've got superglue and a couple of clamps, but no fret seating tool.

I'll post some photos later of progress...

Tap it in with a mallet or bit of wood and a hammer. If it's loose its probably not going to need much persuasion. Superglue will work fine.

Thanks Sonic! I will give that a go.

Hi Guys,

Some images to show progress:

Headstock Carve:
Attachment 30543

Neck height adjustment:
Attachment 30544

Switch cavity route:
Attachment 30545

Deeper pickup route, dowelled holes from TOM bridge:
Attachment 30546

New hole for ground wire to bridge (drilled via the jack cavity):
Attachment 30547

Doing a really tidy job there Shambrick, looking good!

Thanks Sonic.

Gents, I have another technical question. AS you can see from teh images in my previous post, I have removed the plastic nut to replace with a new bone nut, supplied with the kit.

I have discovered that the new bone nut is considerably thinner than the original, and so it is very loose in the nut slot.

Should I source a replacement nut from Pitbull or can I shim it on the headstock side?

Hmm, that's an unusual problem. I normally find the graphtech ones I use a little snug and sand them down a bit.

I don't see any problem with a shim on the head stock side. Can we see a pic of it in the slot, just out of curiosity?

Thanks Sonic,

Sure - I'll take a couple tonight and get out my callipers so that I can share accurate dimensions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shambrick

OK, time for an update gents. I have made a lot of progress over the past few weeks, although still a long way to go!

Design decisions:

1. Switch from tune-o-matic bridge to tele style 3-saddle bridge (ground out to allow for bigsby string clearance). Requires adjusted neck height and break angle to suit this change, and a new cavity for ground wire to bridge...

.

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I'm wondering why you'd opt for the Tele bridge. If you're going to install a vibrato I would've thought you'd go for a roller bridge.

You can use a few different styles, but it is not uncommon to retain the Tele bridge and remove some of the plate for string clearance from the trem. I guess it keeps it more in the style of the Tele guitars with the bridge pickup in the ashtray. There is that cavity for the pickup to take into consideration if you went to something like a TOM roller.

https://i.imgur.com/9BkUvXd.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TZK321

I'm wondering why you'd opt for the Tele bridge. If you're going to install a vibrato I would've thought you'd go for a roller bridge.

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I was about to write a detailed response, but Sonic has summed it up nicely in his post!

2 underlying reasons:

First, I had no problem with the operation of the kit bridge, I just wanted a tele style setup. Lots of research went into the decision, driven by my desire for a certain aesthetic. That La Grange Sultan just gets my juices flowing...

Second, my daughter has a Thinline 72 Squire and she was interested in trying a Bigsby setup. So I rolled two thoughts into one guitar build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

You can use a few different styles, but it is not uncommon to retain the Tele bridge and remove some of the plate for string clearance from the trem. I guess it keeps it more in the style of the Tele guitars with the bridge pickup in the ashtray. There is that cavity for the pickup to take into consideration if you went to something like a TOM roller.

https://i.imgur.com/9BkUvXd.jpg

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Nice guitar!

As requested, an update on the relative size of my nuts :p:

Original plastic nut:
Attachment 30572

New Bone Nut:
Attachment 30573

Nut Slot:
Attachment 30574
Attachment 30575

The plastic nut, when glued in place, was fine. The bone nut is .3 of a mm too narrow, and so it flops around quite a lot in the slot.

Yeah that’s a combination of slightly too big slot and slightly too thin nut. Theoretically it should be 3mm. A small shim should do it. You can find out what the fret measurement should be using the stew Mac fret calculator, that will tell you if you should shim in front or behind the nut.

That is unusual, I'd check with Adam, perhaps you got the one in 500 that was a bit thin. I've used the Pitbull bone nuts in 90% of my builds and they have been fine so defiantly check with Adam. And failing that I'd shim it.

Once you've got it strung, will the strings hold it in place?

Thanks Sonic, will do that

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TZK321

Once you've got it strung, will the strings hold it in place?

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I'd say that with a shim and glue it would be OK, but I might take Sonic's advice and touch base with Adam

Ok guys, time for some updates.

I've had a good Easter break and things are now moving forward. I go the first rounds of paint on to the body this weekend. Now it's time to let things cure for a week and then on to some flatting in preparation for the final colour coats and a nice, smooth, glassy finish.

I'm stoked to see it appearing in final form.

Attachment 30603
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Attachment 30605

That’s looking really good now. Not too far to go now.

Hi Guys,

Lots happening in the past few weeks but nothing of real note to share by photo.

I've pressed forward on painting of body (Holts Duplicolor Acrylic for both colour and clear coat) and have one coat of gloss acrylic on and I've done the frets.

I'm now getting ready to seal the neck and I'm looking for your advice:

- I want a finish that is very clear - no yellowing of the finish.
- I'm also keen to have a neck that doesn't get 'grippy' due to its gloss.
- I'll be applying a water slide decal on the headstock.

I'm tossing up two main options at present but happy to have others suggested:

1. Straight duplicolor acrylic gloss
2. a satin wipe-on poly (Feast Watson or Cabots)

Acrylic gloss is attractive because I already purchased some for the body, but I want to avoid a glossy finish.
Wipe-on poly is attractive for ease of use and I can buy satin finish, but not sure how it would go with the water slide decal

What say ye wise folk?

Cabots satin poly is really nice on necks (I’ve used the spray, but I’m sure brush on would be fine, they are good products.)

It however did not work for me doing water slides. The satin finish means it looks cloudy where ever it’s supposed to be clear.

A cut vinyl decal is a good option, you can get them made pretty cheaply by most sign places.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

Cabots satin poly is really nice on necks (I’ve used the spray, but I’m sure brush on would be fine, they are good products.)

It however did not work for me doing water slides. The satin finish means it looks cloudy where ever it’s supposed to be clear.

A cut vinyl decal is a good option, you can get them made pretty cheaply by most sign places.

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Cheers Sonic, good advice.

I have already ordered a custom waterslide from Rothko & Frost, so I either have to junk it or explore ways around the problem.

I'll sleep on it and do some testing on scrap maple with duplicolor acrylic.

One interesting point - the acrylic I sprayed on the rear of the body (directly over the timber stain) has come up more satin that gloss after the first coats (first coat and then a top up after it flashed off). It may be possible that the neck would do the same as long as I limit the coats.

Anyone else had experience with wipe on poly and waterslide decals?

Hi folks,

A bit of radio silence from me, but much progress happening:

- I've almost finished the neck.
- I am adding lacquer coats to the body.
- I've designed and templated a pickguard.
- I've finalised the hard mounting of the humbuckers.

I have ordered a water slide decal from Rothko Frost, but they seem to be having trouble with delviery - first one lost, second one MIA.

Does anyone have a recommendation in Aus for this kind of thing?

Attachment 31124

Attachment 31125

Attachment 31126

Attachment 31127

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shambrick

Hi folks,

A bit of radio silence from me, but much progress happening:

- I've almost finished the neck.
- I am adding lacquer coats to the body.
- I've designed and templated a pickguard.
- I've finalised the hard mounting of the humbuckers.

I have ordered a water slide decal from Rothko Frost, but they seem to be having trouble with delviery - first one lost, second one MIA.

Does anyone have a recommendation in Aus for this kind of thing?

Attachment 31124

Attachment 31125

Attachment 31126

Attachment 31127

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Wow, I’m liking that. Nice work.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go

Wow, I’m liking that. Nice work.


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Cheers bud

Hi Peeps,

Long gaps in between updates are pretty much de rigeur for me, but hey...

Things continue to move forward - I can see the finish line now.

Over the past few weeks I've been:

- clear coating body and neck
- applying the Rothko and Frost decal that (finally) arrived
- fabricating pickguards
- wiring electronics

As of last night I have the body buffed to a high shine and I've started to fit hardware. It's looking good! I have a couple of items still to solder and then I can test the wiring.

After that, it's time to flat and polish the neck and we can make some noise!

Attached are some images of pickguards - I started with matte black but it wasn't right, so ended up with cream pearl

Pickguard is my own design, stealing themes from the LP junior.

More images to come tonight.

Attachment 31303
Attachment 31304

That’s looking gorgeous!

Wow that looks nice.


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Hi Guys and Gals,

Thanks for the nice comments.

More photos and more progress...

First up, some images of the body, (with WIP neck), after polishing.

She looks great except for a frustrating bump / dip on the back. When received, there was evidence of grain swelling under a tape mark - I tried in vain to sand it flat, but alas all I did was sand a depression around it. I can only think that some glue / acetate got into the grain and both raised / hardened it. If I knew then what I know now, I would have accessed a planing machine to level it properly. But hey, only my right hip will ever know:

Attachment 31314
Attachment 31315
Attachment 31316
Attachment 31317

And lastly, after a bit of soldering action....

Attachment 31320

(Cue insane laughter and a heavy dose of hall reverb)

It's ALIVE!!!!

You’ve done a great job, it looks awesome.


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Very nice. Looks like a tuxedo.

looks fantastic

Igor says you need more electrodes and a good thunderstorm to really get it jumping. But that guitar is definitely a stunner, well done!

Thanks Frankie, TK, Sonic and IllGiveItAGo.

Lots of great support and advice in these here parts, makes the job easier.

OK, I'm calling it...

Done (Drops Mic)

Attachment 31399
Attachment 31400
Attachment 31401
Attachment 31402
Attachment 31403

A very big thanks to all the guys here who have helped me with advice along the way. I've learned from my mistakes but I'm stoked withe the result.

I'm down to the fine tuning now. Intonation, etc but it's sounding pretty good out of the box.