First Build (finally) IB-5

Hey all,
I got the IB-5 kit a year ago, and didnt manage to do anything with it till now.
I've checked out all the parts (going all stock kit parts, at least at this stage), and have the following thoughts for the build:

- The ash body has a really nice grain, so I want to do a stain to keep it visible. Thinking of trans black. Will likely keep the neck natural with a clear finish

Reading over some other IB-5 build diaries, I have a few similar issues:
- The hole for the jack is too narrow so the jack only goes in about a quarter length before getting stuck. Will have to enlarge it
- Due to the contours on the body, the jack wont be flush against the body. So will consider creating an inset for it
- The cover for the control panel sits on top of the body, and would look better with an inset and flush finish to the body
- the pot knobs sit a little high over the body. Saw someone use a plastic washer to bring the knobs back to the body.

Looking forward to seeing it come together.

Keen to see what direction you go with your IB-5 build, I just received my fretless neck and body kit a few weeks ago (didn't order stock hardware)... felt like the longest 6 months of my life!

Saw your thread, you've got some good ideas running there
So I went ahead and drilled fixings for the neck and bridge. Managed to screw both of them first time (it's my first build). The neck I was only 1mm off and similar with the bridge. So I filled each with dowel, predrilled and got the right positions. The bridge I measured and checked a dozen times as it seemed to close to the pots, but with the 5th and 1st strings on I was sure I had the right spot.

Next step will be enlarging and creating an inset for the jack, followed by an inset for the control panel plate.

I've researched different guitar pups in the past, but not much experience with bass pups. Anyone think it's worth an upgrade?
Same question applies to the bridge and tuning heads...what do upgrades there actually do for the performance of the bass?

When you get a chance, it would be good to see what your doing with the jack input. Chances are I may have the same issue but I don't have the hardware on hand to confirm it yet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marty C

Saw your thread, you've got some good ideas running there
So I went ahead and drilled fixings for the neck and bridge. Managed to screw both of them first time (it's my first build). The neck I was only 1mm off and similar with the bridge. So I filled each with dowel, predrilled and got the right positions. The bridge I measured and checked a dozen times as it seemed to close to the pots, but with the 5th and 1st strings on I was sure I had the right spot.

Next step will be enlarging and creating an inset for the jack, followed by an inset for the control panel plate.

I've researched different guitar pups in the past, but not much experience with bass pups. Anyone think it's worth an upgrade?
Same question applies to the bridge and tuning heads...what do upgrades there actually do for the performance of the bass?

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most of the kits come with reasonable gear. I’ve an SV-1 that screams with its kit electrics and pickups, so I’d be building it with the kit stuff as upgrades can happen later, if they are even necessary.

Good to hear on the parts selection, that's the way I'm headed. I wont upgrade without a grounds for comparison, and want to know how the stock gear performs.

Gauge - will do.

I got to working on the hole and recess for the jack.
After using a round file on the predrilled hole, realised the angle of the hole wasn't very straight (the jack only sat on one side of the 'four sides of the hole'.
So filed a bit more to get it as even as possible and ended up with this.

http://i.imgur.com/4OH4dhw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5qzcFvM.jpg


For recessing I was concerned as the curve on the top of the body is shallower, so there would be more cut away there.
I drilled down a short way using a spade bit. I should have stopped there but thought it could use more. So I ended up with a hole much deeper than planned.
Then I see the sanding drum bits on my dremel to round off the edges of the hole. And of course lots of sanding by hand to smooth out further.
End result was this

http://i.imgur.com/tI8lvWC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/65aTqFf.jpg


End result was a mixed bag. I had this idea in mind, I just went too deep so it looks like pac man has taken a bite out of the body.
Recessing back cover up next

Hey mate, not sure what happened but I can't see the photos you attached

Just edited using imgur links

I’ve had a crack at similar recessing on a couple of bodies now, and the next time I have to do it, I’ll be setting up in a drill press to get it all bang on centre, somewhat like these knob recesses:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5dcaf48a65.jpg

I tried to eyeball it, made up jigs and tried a couple of different file and or sander drum options but the centrality was always an issue. I do quite like the deep recess and the shaping you’ve done though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So I hooked up the dremel with the new routing bit and guide, and worked on the control cover.
The end result was not great. I didnt bother sanding down as there are a couple of spots that have gone well outside the lines.

http://i.imgur.com/Th7KYCx.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/GHKI26n.jpg

I'm going to be glass is half full on this approach, as the cover plate was not round on one corner anyway, and the beveled edge would have made for an awkward fit.
So I'm looking to source some perspex and cut a new piece slightly larger, which will allow me to clean up the edges of the existing recess. I've seen some interesting colours, and am thinking of a dark tint perspex fo complement the dark stain I'll use for the body.

On that front, I've never cut perspex before. Had a quick look and saw various ways to do it, from scoring with a knife to a laser.
Any recommendations on best way to cut? (note I dont have access to a laser)

If you're feeling game after your routing experience, you could cut the perspex with the dremel...

Those cavity cover recesses really need to be routed with a palm router, a template and a pattern bit (router bit wit the bearing at the top the same diameter as the cutter).
If you did this free hand, working visually to s line then you’ve not done too bad, the body curve doesn’t help much either.
i did a similar thing on my ESR-1, it went okay, but I stayed back inside my line, and used sanding cauls, a marking knife and files to get to the line.

Hahaha Gauge, it's worth considering the dremel on perspex. The bonus being that if I mess one up I can just try another, without affecting the rest of the guitar.

As for the approach Frank, yeah it was freehand to a line. I was considering finishing near the edges with something other than the router, but I dont know what happened to the rest of that thought.
Will definitely be using that approach on the fix up work on the recess.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marty C

I was considering finishing near the edges with something other than the router, but I dont know what happened to the rest of that thought.

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I was considering (sensible, rational approach to basic everyday life situations, plans, and employment) but I dont know what happened to the rest of that thought.

My ever-present state of being...LOL!

Life took a left hand turn (as it does) and have been delayed. Ordered some tinted black perspex to sort the control panel cover issue. Which is cut to shape, so hopefully the dxf file I sent them saves me some time.

Looking at trans black finishes and from what I've seen, using a grain filler before staining seems to be the way to go.

Anyone with experience doing this approach?

I'm ideally looking to get something like this:
http://i.imgur.com/yFB0Xt3.jpg

Doing some research, it looks like filler is ideal for open grain wood like ash to ensure a smooth finish.

Would like to get a bit of ash to use as a test piece, but haven't had any luck finding some (that's not a $500 cabinet I would have to sand back anyway).

Anyone know sources for off cuts or small bits of ash?

Perspex for back cover arrived, and the size it had been cut to was slightly larger than I thought. But more sanding and now at this

http://i.imgur.com/6wNTghE.jpg

Getting closer.
Have to rout again to get the cover flush with the body.

Happy with the tinted perspex though

Finished the cover. At least for now.
http://i.imgur.com/tSDqBZg.jpg
It has been a learning experience...realised too late how curved the IB5 kit is. I probably wouldn't have enlarged the recess so close to the edge of the body if I had.
Before trying to fix the perspex to the recess, it was looking alright. I thought if I could fix the cover at 4 points it would be enough to ensure all sides were flush with the body.
But to get the top of the screws close to flush with the cover, it pulled the cover down more than expected, so it's not as flat and smooth like I wanted.

At this stage I'm moving on....At least the cover isn't sitting above the body anymore, it's fixed securely and the tinted cover material is cool

The curved body profiles are a bugger for that. I have made a couple of wooden covers that fit into a square edged recess and then the top profile gets smoothed off to match the body curve. But it is time consuming and frustrating and relies on having been able to cut the recess squarely into the body to begin with.
The other part of it is trying to get wood grain to be complimentary or at least contrasting enough to be interesting.

Yeah, I may try thinner screws for less pressure on the cover, but makes it harder to find ones long enough with the thicker cover.
But you're right Frankie, the curves are a B! I did it bit by bit, then when the fit was decent the body was a bit higher, so sanded that back and it just wouldn't match up.
Maybe next build will have a nice flat back 😀

Knock up a mould out of a bit of pine and then use a heat gun to soften the plastic, it will slump to shape and stay there when it cools

Or rout out again, stick a layer of a suitable thick veneer (say 2mm) on top of the perspex, then sand the veneer so that it matches the curve of the back. If you plan on screening the control cavity, then you'll need copper on the back of the cover plate, so it won't remain see-through.

Just a thought.

Good ideas guys, cheers. Will think on those.
Good point on the shielding Simon, I figured it wouldn't be critical with the 2 HBs arrangement.
Is the difference in a bass like this noticeable between shielded inside and not?

It's normally less critical with humbuckers, but if there's a lot of RFI about, the cavity wiring can pick it up and shielding will give you as quiet a bass as possible. It's always something you can do later, but if you are going to do it, then it always seems a lot easier to do it during the build.

Worked on the body over the last week or so
First I used an ebony grain filler, and had to resand a lot as I didn't wipe enough of the excess off (lessons learnt)..
http://i.imgur.com/JZ9yhZe.jpg
Then I used a black stain. After first coat:
http://i.imgur.com/mIUGwVQ.jpg
And ended up doing two more. Here it is with three coats
http://i.imgur.com/c0Uo8QS.jpg

Haven't done the clear finishing yet, and haven't done the neck. Though I'm thinking of using the same process on the front of the headstock as for the body

As a side note, the perspex cover I did ended up taking to the intended shape on its own, just by leaving it screwed in. It's not 100 percent perfect, but significantly better than straight after I put it on

About to start wiring up, and have a couple of questions:
1. The IB5 wiring diagram shows a white hot wire from each humbucker , which looks to be a red wire and white wire pre tinned together. That how other people see it?
2. This leaves a black wire from each humbucker that doesn't seem to have a function in the wiring diagram. Anyone know what it's for?
3. I can't see how the pickups will sit flat in the body, because the only room for the cable from pickup to vol/tone controls is under the pickup, which makes the pickup sit higher than it should. It also happens at one end only so the pickup is at a slanted elevation across the strings.
I know this isn't right and feel like I'm missing something really obvious...how are the pickups supposed to sit in the cavities and accommodate the wiring?

Taking a stab - you've got a set of coil split humbuckers. The wires that are tinned together - fold them back and mask them off - they are joining the two coils of the humbuckers - you don't want these live wires touching anything as it'll likely kill the sound. Work with the black wire as the primary. In terms of sitting flat - the neck and bridge will elevate the strings off the body - this will give some room for the pickups to sit over the wires and below the strings. Alternatively - some have run a channel for the wires under the pickups if there really is no room.

Yep, Brendan is spot on. The factory has changed from 2-wire (hot and bare) pickups to 4-wire (plus bare shield) versions.

Black = hot (connect to volume)
Red & White = series link between coils (leave joined and just insulate the tip so it can’t short if you’re not doing coil splits)
Green & Bare = ground and shield (connect them to your ground point, back of pot etc).

(Brendan, looks like it may be time to update that diagram too)

Cheers guys, straightforward answer

I got around to finishing my IB5 this week.
Came out alright for a first build. Definitely worth the lessons learned.
Was happy with the wiring and final setup, everything worked as expected first go. No fret buzz anywhere, and no hum.
Plus,it's super fun to play...

https://imgur.com/a/xHoUZcw

https://i.imgur.com/uyUHreP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/A5TOell.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/His9EfG.jpg

Nice one mate! You’ve gone low B on that one yeah?

Really great looking unit, I like the rosewood board so much more than the maple one I had. Great job!

Thanks Frankie.
Yeah,low B for the heavier stuff I like playing.
I've only run it through a small 15 w amp I have but thought the stock pickups are fine. If I ever put it through a bigger system I may hear otherwise but more than able for home recording I do.

Looks good! Love the black