First build. SG 1

Well here goes. 1st build for me an SG 1.
I am not very confident due to my skill level but looking forward to it.
I am going to keep it very simple as I am just learning.
Sanding back to 240 grit and going to stain the neck and body black then sand and then stain cherry red followed by several coats of tru oil for a nice shine.
I've done the mock build and everthing seems good.
I am worried about cutting the head stock so may leave this one standard. The headstock will be gloss black.
The only problem I can see is that one of the pearl dots on the fretboard is raised quite a bit and not flush. Am I able to tap this in or should I attempt to sand it?
Not sure how to post pics from my phone.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tomtom

Well here goes. 1st build for me an SG 1.
I am not very confident due to my skill level but looking forward to it.
I am going to keep it very simple as I am just learning.
Sanding back to 240 grit and going to stain the neck and body black then sand and then stain cherry red followed by several coats of tru oil for a nice shine.
I've done the mock build and everthing seems good.
I am worried about cutting the head stock so may leave this one standard. The headstock will be gloss black.
The only problem I can see is that one of the pearl dots on the fretboard is raised quite a bit and not flush. Am I able to tap this in or should I attempt to sand it?
Not sure how to post pics from my phone.

---

Hiya Tomtom and welcome!

the easiest way to post pics from your phone is to download the Tapatalk App and post from that, it will allow you to resize photos and post directly to your thread or others.

The dot should have been levelled with the board form factory, there are two options here:

1. Very carfully sand it flat with the board
2. mask around it, use a small diamond file to get it close, then finish with sand paper (600 grit or higher)

im not sure tapping it in is a good idea as you may break it out completely.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Hiya Tomtom and welcome!

the easiest way to post pics from your phone is to download the Tapatalk App and post from that, it will allow you to resize photos and post directly to your thread or others.

The dot should have been levelled with the board form factory, there are two options here:

1. Very carfully sand it flat with the board
2. mask around it, use a small diamond file to get it close, then finish with sand paper (600 grit or higher)

im not sure tapping it in is a good idea as you may break it out completely.

---

Hope these photos worked. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...199a774aab.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9a47d20f47.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Oh wow, that really is sitting up isn’t it?

i think a small diamond file will take that down, but you’ll have to be very careful so as not to take material off the corner or the face of the board.

Put masking tape around it to start with to help protect the wood (already mentioned above). Maybe use some Scotch tape (as it's thinner) when it's almost flat. Then sandpaper should work after the files. Make sure the frets stay covered as you don't want to scratch those. Don't use too coarse a file or paper, as MOP is supposed to come away in grains that are about twice the size of the grit used, so you can easily get dips below the surface of the fretboard. So go fine and go slowly but surely.

Thanks. I will try that. Starting the build in 3 weeks.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Ok. Here goes. Got diamond coated files and ready to start. Wish me luck. Shitty way to have to start my first build but challenging. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e7bb02ecdf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Bit at a time, checking often mate, easy as she goes.

First coat of black stain. Maybe 1 more coat before I start on the cherry red.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a12d8adff4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Coat 3 of the black. Sanding with 320 tomorrow and cherry red coats to finish. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c85f438a2.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sanded back black now 3 coats of cherry. Might do a couple more to darken it up before letting it dry completely and start the tru oil finish.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a37ce624ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e2f29126eb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Problem as can be seen in the photo above is the horizontal line across the bottom of the stain. Have no idea where this came from as it wasn't visible until I started applying the red stain.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Given it goes right across all the different bits of wood, I think this looks like the body hasn't gone through the thicknesser cleanly.

If it were me I would try using a big flat sanding block and some fairly coarse sandpaper to level it out a bit better. Means undoing some of your work, but at least you haven't progressed to clears yet.

I normally do a light guide coat to show where the low spots are sanding like in these pics. This guitar was to be black, so it's really important to get it super flat.

http://i.imgur.com/KqeUtyo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uvBV6sd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3I8wHPI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/urvXziO.jpg

Thanks sonic

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sorry to be a pest and asking too many questions but I seem to be having a lot of issues with the finish on this basswood body. The true oil seems to be working ok on the front and back although not quite as smooth as I would have liked after 5 thin coats.
The main issue is with the edges of the body where the oil just seems to soak in and stiil is rough with no gloss. I sanded everything to 320 grit but it is very frustrating that the edges now feel and look rough. Am I doing something wrong or should I just try to keep building up the tru oil on the edges?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...69d92aa126.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

It’s a patience game with the oil finishes. Some of the really nice tru oil finishes you see have up to 30 odd thin coats on them, or more depending on the individuals level of OCD.

Looking great so far.

The end grain usually seems very "thirsty" and well take a lot of oil to start with. The more you put on, it will eventually start to even out like the face of the wood. Did you give it a soak coat to begin with?

Just starting soak coats on the end grain now.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

On a brighter note I followed the advice and used a diamond file on the 12th fret mother of pearl and managed to get it pretty flush. A few minor scratches which I can polish out.
Thanks fellas.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9d1e796b75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c7f4bf1804.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0bde7eba3d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Nice job on the levelling, tape the frets either side and then work over it with some finer papers and it should be sweet!

Ok. Thanks everyone for your advice. I have learned a valuable lesson. Prep and sanding. Photo 1 is my rush job. Photo 3 is my patience. Numerous coats of true oil to go now and plenty of 0000 steel wool buffs in between. Will let the girl settle for a week to completely dry out before a final light buff and commencement of tru oil.
Stain was just a water based jarrah colour from Bunnings hardware.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fbb60189b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6c5d2a7644.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba466710f7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tomtom

Ok. Thanks everyone for your advice. I have learned a valuable lesson. Prep and sanding. Photo 1 is my rush job. Photo 3 is my patience. Numerous coats of true oil to go now and plenty of 0000 steel wool buffs in between. Will let the girl settle for a week to completely dry out before a final light buff and commencement of tru oil.
Stain was just a water based jarrah colour from Bunnings hardware.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fbb60189b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6c5d2a7644.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba466710f7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

---

Tomtom that is looking real nice now. Awesome job on the stain the second time round.

Agreed, that looks so much better! Great work.

Great job on that stain. It's a super-consistent colour compared to your first attempt, and the jarrah looks the goods.

Getting nicer now. Just took a lot of patience and sanding.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8f655065a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

That looks a million bucks!

Dumb question here. Sorry in advance. Should I install all the hardware on the body before I glue the neck on or vice versa.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tomtom

Dumb question here. Sorry in advance. Should I install all the hardware on the body before I glue the neck on or vice versa.

---

No, get your neck set, then once its dry properly you add your hardware.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tomtom

Dumb question here. Sorry in advance. Should I install all the hardware on the body before I glue the neck on or vice versa.

---

No such thing as a dumb question mate. Always best to ask if you aren't sure about something as it reduces the risk of making things more complicated for yourself. There are a lot of guys on here with loads of experience and all very friendly.

I am just worried about the angle. Should I just glue it flush with the cavity? I thought if the hardware was all on I could see if the strings were nice and level.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tomtom

I am just worried about the angle. Should I just glue it flush with the cavity? I thought if the hardware was all on I could see if the strings were nice and level.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

---

Are you referring to the angle of the neck relative to the top of the body?

I'm no expert, so you might want to see what the consensus is, but:

When I re-set the neck on my EX-1, I fitted the bridge and stoptail, as well as the tuners for the high and low E strings. I (double) clamped the neck down the middle with clearance to actually fit a high and low E string. With this I was able to ballpark intonation and string height and ensure I could sensibly adjust both once the neck has the full tension of all 6 strings.

For this particular guitar it was pretty important, because if the neck tenon sat flush against the floor and back of the neck pocket, it would be way out of alignment. I took my time, trying out different shims to get the break angle right, and spacers to get the scale length right.

But, YMMV. The EX kits need a bit of patience and care in getting the neck right - I haven't heard the same for the AG kits.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Woltz

Are you referring to the angle of the neck relative to the top of the body?

---

Just making sure when the neck is flush with the cavity that this is the correct place to glue it. Would be easier if hardware was installed maybe? Then I could get more of a visual. I'm hoping that the factory cuts/cavity etc. is ready to go without adjusting. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2a0bb5b7fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...313d04cb6d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

If you haven't checked your scale length, you definitely want to at least get the bridge in place, clamp your neck in place and then see how it measures up prior to gluing it.

a long straight edge will give you an indication of your string angle and height, holding in mind that you can raise and lower the bridge and the nut to a degree.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

If you haven't checked your scale length, you definitely want to at least get the bridge in place, clamp your neck in place and then see how it measures up prior to gluing it.

a long straight edge will give you an indication of your string angle and height, holding in mind that you can raise and lower the bridge and the nut to a degree.

---

Thanks for that will do. See where I didnt sand back and stain back of neck properly. Lol. Newbie error.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tomtom

Thanks for that will do. See where I didnt sand back and stain back of neck properly. Lol. Newbie error.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

---

Where it meets body. Haha.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Looks pretty good in the pics mate. There is a lot to take on with your first build. If you go back and read mine (from only a year and a half ago) I'm paranoid about all sorts of things...

A couple of people have already mentioned this, but you really need to do a dummy install of the bridge and work out where the neck needs to go for correct scale length. It is not as simple as butting the end bit up against the cavity.

So put some tape around the bridge post screws so you can roughly centre them in the holes, and pop the bridge on. You want a measurement of 628mm from the inside edge of the nut to the bridge. I tend to go for the high E saddle being around 3/4 - 4/5's of the way forward (towards the pickups) and getting that at 628mm. All the other strings will need to be slightly longer to intonate properly. So long as you have adjustment backwards you are all good. You will probably find the neck needs to be pulled outwards from the body a bit to get this measurement right.

This is also a good time to temporarily install the high and low E tuners and run some ordinary string from them to the bridge. This will let you see if there is a big enough break angle on the neck and that it is nice and straight in relation to the bridge- ie both strings run evenly down either side of the fret board.

Here is a pic of me doing that on my recent semi scratch build:

https://i.imgur.com/EIjqmYD.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

Looks pretty good in the pics mate. There is a lot to take on with your first build. If you go back and read mine (from only a year and a half ago) I'm paranoid about all sorts of things...

A couple of people have already mentioned this, but you really need to do a dummy install of the bridge and work out where the neck needs to go for correct scale length. It is not as simple as butting the end bit up against the cavity.

So put some tape around the bridge post screws so you can roughly centre them in the holes, and pop the bridge on. You want a measurement of 628mm from the inside edge of the nut to the bridge. I tend to go for the high E saddle being around 3/4 - 4/5's of the way forward (towards the pickups) and getting that at 628mm. All the other strings will need to be slightly longer to intonate properly. So long as you have adjustment backwards you are all good. You will probably find the neck needs to be pulled outwards from the body a bit to get this measurement right.

This is also a good time to temporarily install the high and low E tuners and run some ordinary string from them to the bridge. This will let you see if there is a big enough break angle on the neck and that it is nice and straight in relation to the bridge- ie both strings run evenly down either side of the fret board.

Here is a pic of me doing that on my recent semi scratch build:

https://i.imgur.com/EIjqmYD.jpg

---

Thanks heaps for that Sonic.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Hey Sonic. Set up neck ready for glueing as per your advice but I think the distance is a bit much. About 630 to high e saddle and that is screwed almost all the way forward. I may have to trim a bit off the neck to make it a bit shorter. Probably 4mm to give a bit more room for adjustment.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0e2025c980.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yes, that seems sensible if the end of the neck tang is hard up against the cavity. A couple of mm should do the trick.