My first build (IB-1F)

Hey guys,



I've wanted to build my own guitar for quite some time now and decided that my birthday would be the perfect moment to get it all started. I've bought the IB-1F kit and have to say that i'm surprised at some parts of the kit, but also a bit disappointed in other parts.



One of the main "Problems" i have is the inconsistency of the binding thickness. for around 75% of the guitar, the binding is perfect in thickness, but at the bottom part (the part you rest the guitar on your leg) the binding is only 0,1 - 0,2 mm thick. This makes it impossible to scrape the binding after staining.

What would you guys think would be a possible solution for this problem? i was thinking about routing out the binding and replacing it with a new one, only problem is that the body is carved both front and back, which makes it very hard to get a continuous depth with a routing tool. You guys have any idea to overcome this hurdle?



Secondly, the fret ends are not flush with the rest of the neck. I've tried softly hammering them down, but they don't stay down.



Hope to get some help from you guys!

Hi Mathijsrie,

I would probably raise these issues, with some clear photos, with Adam at Pitbull.
The fret issue is possibly a case of fret slots not quite deep enough, or fretwire not bent to the right radius. If you've tapped them down already and they won't stay down then I'm inclined to think its the latter.
- It is possible to remove the frets and bend them a bit further but you need a set of fret pullers and some fretboard guards to do this properly without damaging the board or the fret.
- You can try wicking some superglue under the suspect fret ends and then clamping until the glue sets up but this is fiddly work and stinky and you will have some clean up to do around the fret as superglue goes where it wants.
- You can buy some fretwire, and a couple of fret dressing files and dive into the wonderful world of refretting a neck. (not recommended on your first couple of builds, but it has been done, just don't ask how I know this! :D)

As far as the bindings go, strip and reapply is the best fix, though with the profiling on that body as you've stated, re-routing that channel would be very difficult. I've yet to play with binding so i can't offer much advice here, one of the other forum regulars might be able to lend some assistance with that.

Above all, i stress my first point, before you go attempting anything more involved than what you've done, speak to Adam, he may be able to sort something out for you.

Hi FrakenWashie,

I've contacted Adam, a reply will come when i'm asleep i thing since i live in the Netherlands. Hoping he can come with a solution or else i guess i need to buy some new binding, and start sanding deeper grooves in some way.

As for the frets, lets hope it will be fixed aswell, but if it wont be possible, i guess i'll have to go with the method of wicking it under and sanding down the neck afterwards. Lets hope it does not have to get to that point.

Thanks for the reply!

As for the binding i would suggest leave as is and either find some latex or silicon that you could apply over binding and trim any excess off before staining. High grade masking tape may work but with all the curves involved it is a very fiddly and time consuming preparation job. I chose to use masking tape on my ES1 build and that worked just fine.
Either option would require only minimal binding clean up with 2000 grit wet & dry sandpaper.

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Originally Posted by Mathijsrie

Hi FrakenWashie,

I've contacted Adam, a reply will come when i'm asleep i thing since i live in the Netherlands. Hoping he can come with a solution or else i guess i need to buy some new binding, and start sanding deeper grooves in some way.

As for the frets, lets hope it will be fixed aswell, but if it wont be possible, i guess i'll have to go with the method of wicking it under and sanding down the neck afterwards. Lets hope it does not have to get to that point.

Thanks for the reply!

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The other thing you could do, rather than use a router to strip the binding is to try and use a razor blade or similar to remove the binding. Once the biding itself is off, you can use a file, a fine rasp or P80 sand paper stuck to one side of a flat block to sand your rebate back and provide an even depth for new binding. It would be very painstaking work, but it may prove easier than the router method given the contours of the IB body.

A picture can be worth 1000 words. Can you show us the problem?

I've attached 2 pictures, it's very hard to see but at the picture of the horn you can see the normal binding thickness and the other one the thin binding is visible. In the pictures, the binding looks wider than it really is unfortunately but it is regarding the area directly underneath the switch up untill the tone knob hole.

Also, i've received a mail from Mr. Boyle, saying:

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"The binding sounds like it is pretty standard for all kits in the price range. The factory will install the binding then trim to ensure it matches the contours of the body."

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So i guess it will not be fixed via PitBull unfortunately.

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WazKelly:

As for the binding i would suggest leave as is and either find some latex or silicon that you could apply over binding and trim any excess off before staining. High grade masking tape may work but with all the curves involved it is a very fiddly and time consuming preparation job. I chose to use masking tape on my ES1 build and that worked just fine.

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Could u please explain this to me? Like taping off the body so the desired binding thickness will be uncovered and than apply the silicone/latex to that portion of the wood?

Luckely my father owns a business in tapes, so every desired tape is available in very short notice:D



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Attachment 29089

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Originally Posted by Mathijsrie

Luckely my father owns a business in tapes, so every desired tape is available in very short notice:D



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Attachment 29089

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Handy to have connected relatives!

I can see what you are saying with the binding at the lower bout, it really does look off, and that would annoy the hell out of me.
The great part is that the veneer (from what we can see) looks absolutely wonderful!
I would think that a strip off of existing binding, carefully (VERY carefully) deepening that binding rebate manually, and re applying to get an even binding band is the best way to proceed.
The other non fiddly option is to live with it, though I'm not sure I could do that and my natural inclination is to fix these small defects (hence why there is One kit being actually built in my workshop and three being "Contemplated" for solutions to similar issues).

Best of luck with it! If you get stuck, sing out and there are plenty here who can and do offer advice. :)

Oh, yeah, that would annoy me too. I've replaced the binding on two acoustic instruments, and I have to say it's pretty annoying but totally worth it. I don't how much you want to spend on tools, but I can 100% recommend something like this:

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...ng_Cutter.html

It's a tricky tool to use if you're doing a whole guitar, but for small areas it is great. I'm sure you could also find a cheaper alternative, or make one yourself.

I'm not sure about the best way to get the current binding off (the two I fixed had old binding that was already separating, so I just pulled it off by hand), but there are lots of good videos which show you how to put new binding on, and lots of forum members will be able to help with that too!

I went down the path of using high grade tape to cover binding and didn't have any of the usual dramas of stain bleed or soaking up into miniscule cracks in such.
As for coating with latex, read about that on this forum about 1-2 years ago and it seemed to make sense at the time.
Both methods are time consuming and just comes down to which one you feel most confident attempting.
Acknowledge with a veneer top that binding is required but it is also a reason why i have have built 5 out of 7 that didn't have binding as there are so many threads littered with dramas.

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So, decided to take the hard way, started to remove the binding by applying heat and a knife, only problem is dat it keeps chipping after 1-2 CM. This is going to take a while i'm afraid. On the positive side, the new binding i've ordered will take about 3 weeks till it arrives, so no need to hurry this.

Thx for the help guys!

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Originally Posted by Mathijsrie

So, decided to take the hard way, started to remove the binding by applying heat and a knife, only problem is dat it keeps chipping after 1-2 CM. This is going to take a while i'm afraid. On the positive side, the new binding i've ordered will take about 3 weeks till it arrives, so no need to hurry this.

Thx for the help guys!

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Slow and steady mate, that’s the way.

Nice one FW!

One day later and the binding is completely gone, the insides of the horns took me almost the same, if not more time to do than the rest of the body.

At this moment the next hurdle arrises, how to i deepen the binding slots. Went to a wood working shop but they couldn't help me, thought long and hard and finally decided that the easiest solution normally is the best solution, so i glued a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to an old credit card that could form with the contours of the body, and it worked great!

Bering the impatient person i am, i really wanted to see what it the top was going to look like, so i diluted the black stain i had ordered, and started applying it to the top, and wiping it down with water directly afterwards so i would not have to sand that much. After the stain, some glue spots started showing (picture was taken after first diluted stain and light overal sanding), sanding some more started to hide them (after the picture was taken), but still some are visible, would a thick layer of black stain hide them or should i sand more you guys think?

Attachment 29123

Looks like a job for goof off.

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#2 for goof off....... That veneer is very thin

Some days, and lots of elbo grease later, it's time for another update.

Goof Off did the job on most of the parts so thanks for the advice!

It took me quite some time to deepen the binding slots, but its finally done.
Now the waiting game has begun. The new binding will take another 2-4 weeks till it arrives, so i've applied the first coat of stain and gave it a light sanding and WOW, The flame really pops on this veneer!!!

next posts coming when the binding arrives!
Attachment 29182

That’s a fantastic first coat result, it’s such a damn shame the factory can’t seem that Center the veneers better. Great work mate!


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Yeah, the veneer being off center is a shame indeed, but when you hold the guitar in the angle that it would hang from the strap, its less visible.

Btw, two little questions,
I'm going for a burst effect with black stain around the edges, at first i thought it would be best to apply the burst after the installation of the binding. This so that if i accidentally scrape of to much binding and because of that also scrape off some wood, i could re-apply some black stain there. But now i'm thinking about that, when i've glued in the binding, there's a chance of little glue spots forming on the veneer, making that the burst would not adhere any more. What what do you guys recommend?

And secondly, does any of you guys have experience with glueing binding, and what method to do this would you recommend?
It's ABS binding.

Cheers!

Hi Mathijsrie. I have done small scale binding jobs prior to staining, not a stained guitar body. My work has also required sanding as the binding has sat higher than the surface. I use acetone painted onto the binding and wood which dissolves the binding enough to adhere it to the wood once dry (I also use a little binding/acetone slurry like a glue). I’ve tried using painters tape to hold the binding until it dries but given the sharper curves I’ve been dealing with I found this didn’t work well...but perhaps a better adhesive tape might work on the angles of your guitar body but I would be concerned about the horns.

I think most people here would use a glue and I guess that may be your best option? Hopefully a gluing guru will speak up. I suspect you will require some pre shaping of the binding, especially from the neck to around the horns. I don’t have a heat gun to do this but got away with submersing the binding into boiled water and working quickly.

Lots of YouTube videos out there. Hope you find some use in what I’ve said, even if it’s just rejecting my method.
Good luck and look forward to seeing what you do.

Time for a big update after a hell a lot of work being done.

Reminder to self: never re-do a binding job on a guitar with a curved back...
It took extreme amounts of time, effort and patience, but i'm happy with the end results. Also applied the first coat of tru oil and now i'm not sure of i want to keep it matte or take it all the way tot a gloss finish. Hard Times haha
Attachment 29271

That is a fantastic result Matijsrie! The hard work you’ve put in is obvious even from this small res photo.
You should be justifiably proud of that effort!

Top job. What did you use to attach the binding? I think glossy would suit it. You forwarded to seeing what you choose to do.

Wow that looks great, well done!

Thanks guys, just applied the 3th layer of (crimson) penetrating oil on the top of the body the second layer on the back.
I think i am going for a gloss finish on the top and matte on the back for some nice contrast.

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DarkMark
Top job. What did you use to attach the binding? I think glossy would suit it. You forwarded to seeing what you choose to do.

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I've called a local luthier for some advice, and he advised me to use acetone and some high grade painters tape, and i have to say, really glad with his advice as is visible!

Hey guys, another update after a long time, and the guitar is finished (kinda).
Visually, i'm really happy with the end results of it, choose to go for a matte finish after all, felt it suited the colors better.

Attachment 29383

Big downside is the fact that i'm starting to get alot of buyers remorse. Already had to spend over €150 euro extra on replacing parts and parts that were not included (that should have been).

But the worst part of it all is the fact that today after one month of active building the instrument, plugged it in for the first time and had such extreme microphonic feedback that it is only playable on the clean channel of my amp. And to make things worse, the knife edges on the Floyd are already dulled out in such extreme ways that even the slightest touch on the trem arm detunes it, retuning does not work since every time i touch it, it shoots out of tune again (there are channels in the posts as well).

No really sure how to feel about the whole project with hindsight, but i guess i maby could have expected some problems. Not trying to be a spoilet brat or anything right now, but even my cheapo Harley benton (€150) sounds and feels 10 times better.