What sanding sealer are people using that is available locally in Australia? I see Feast Watson is the only one available at the BGS, but see mixed reviews on it
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What sanding sealer are people using that is available locally in Australia? I see Feast Watson is the only one available at the BGS, but see mixed reviews on it
I’ve used behlin vinyl sealer on a few different guitars and it works well. I actually used it as a top coat on a relic job once too. They say not to but if worked fine. It’s available from guitaraust.com.au
i use bunnings https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-wa...ealer_p1564794 i just brush on a couple of coats dry overnight its not rocket sience does the job
I've just shot a few coats of Zinsser Shellac sealer. Comes in an aerosol can and goes on really good
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I’ve just started using the FW stuff, I have a single coat on my ESR and my ST build, I have to say I’m sold on it. Very easy on with the brush, cleans up well and the finish after a sand back is quite excellent.
I have to agree, it's a pleasure to work with and oh so smooth after sanding.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I've got a few tests I want to run with it in regards to taking stain, as the directions say to use Prooftint after sanding off the sealer. As Prooftint is spirit based, I want to try some keda dyes mixed with isopropyl alcohol to see how they play. Maybe even try water based as well to see if that takes and if there is any difference. I have already tested water based dye prior to applying the sealer, but it mostly sands away with the sealer unfortunately. Maybe spirit based would work different when applied prior - dunno yet will have to try that too.
Also want to see how it goes on Ash and flame maple after grain filling/popping with timbermate and before tru oil. Will be interesting to see how it all turns out and see what sequence and combinations work best, if at all [emoji3]
All the tools I have in my house are mostly made by Makita. That is all because I was able to find a really good sander and that is how I started with them. I had a lot of stuff that needed sanding in my home and I looked for a sander on bestorbitalsander.com. It is an amazing website with detailed reviews on the best sanders. I have chosen Makita BO5031/2 because they were saying many good things about it and it was in my price range. I really love that it is lightweight and very powerful for its size. After having it I realized that Makita is making really good tools and their stuff lasts for long.
Isn't that kind of redundant? Isn't the sanding sealer meant to fill the grain? So why use the Timbermate as well?Quote:
Also want to see how it goes on Ash and flame maple after grain filling/popping with timbermate and before tru oil.
In your experimenting, maybe do a test to see if the FW SS can be tinted with Prooftint. What's the worst that could happen??? :p
This post was from a while back now. I used it after timber mate to kind of lock it into the grain. So the timber mate didn't sand out as such, only the sealer on top. And with staining (proof tint) I tried multiple combinations of the order of sanding, timber mate (for popping contrast), sanding sealer and stain on scrap veneer first.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
You've really just got to experiment with what your trying to achieve on different woods.
To answer your question directly McCreed, Timber mate was used to pop the grain.
Hah!!! I didn't even look at the dates! Cheers!
Sanding sealer isn't really meant to fill the grain, it's there to stop finishes sinking into the wood. By its nature it may help fill small pores, but you're better off with a dedicated grain filler if the surface is fairly uneven, as ash can certainly be. Of course some sealers also have fillers in them as well so are dual purpose.
Plus, as Bakersdozen says, grain filler can be used to highlight the grain.
From the Feast & Watson product page:
"Ensure that super smooth finish to your timber with Feast Watson Sanding Sealer.
Preparation is the key to all successful projects, and preparing your timber surface for coating and staining is no different.
Our timber floor sealer is a clear, fast drying timber seal that dries to fill the timber grain, providing you with a beautiful, smooth canvas for your timber coating."
Whilst it does say "floor sealer" in the blurb, it's the same product as mentioned and linked in the earlier post.
There are all sorts of products sold as sanding sealer, so that one sounds like it also has a filler content, which means it may not be as transparent as some other sealers.
Description
Feast Watson SANDING SEALER levels rough surfaces to create flawless, mirror finish coatings.
SANDING SEALER is a clear and quickly dries to a hard film which fills open grain and marked timbers.
SANDING SEALER can be dry sanded to create a super smooth finish with no grain pattern.
Top-coat SANDING SEALER with Feast Watson CLEAR VARNISH
Colour
Dries to colourless clear, although it appears milky in the can.
Application Guide
Surface Preparation
New Timber
Sand timber and remove all sanding dust before coating.
Previously Coated Timber
Previously coated surfaces need to be sanded to bare timber.
Remove all sanding dust before coating.
Application Procedure And Equipment
Apply SANDING SEALER using a brush, roller or spray gun.
If applying by spray, add 20% of mineral turpentine to thin product.
Allow to dry before sanding off all surface material with medium grade sand paper.
Apply 1-2 coats of SANDING SEALER depending on grain depth. Two or more coats may be required when applying by spray.
Thoroughly remove all dust from the surface prior to applying finish coats.
STAINING
Apply Feast Watson PROOFTINT stain after the final SANDING SEALER coat has been sanded, and prior to the application of top coats.
Sounds like a miracle product!
Does it actually work as well as the text implies? Can't get F & W over here in the UK - at least not at sensible prices.
But the term 'sanding sealer' seems to cover a wide range of products, some of which fill and some which don't.
Fwiw I have actually used it.
Intended to seal the 'engineered rosewood' on the fingerboard.
Tends to retain that 'milky grey' hue despite drying.
I haven't attempted to stain over it.
Only used it on the end of the board past the last fret.
Was tempted to remove all the frets again and give it several coats.
I may try that on another 'cast off' neck in the parts bin.
cheers ,Mark.
Though to be fair, any finish can look cloudy until it's polished or had a clear coat over it that's polished. If it still looks cloudy when it's got a shiny coat over the top, then it's definitely cloudy.
If it's still milky looking, I don't think you've sanded enough of it off or you've used too much in a single application. You pretty much should sand all of it off leaving barely any there.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Thanks for the tips chaps.
In that case I'll just keep slathering the stuff on and then wait until it dries...
Attachment 36884
cheers, Mark.
edit: Looks like I've sneezed.
Apply SANDING SEALER using a brush, roller or spray gun.
If applying by spray, add 20% of mineral turpentine to thin product.
Apply 1-2 coats of SANDING SEALER depending on grain depth.
Two or more coats may be required when applying by spray.
Allow to dry before sanding off all surface material with medium grade sand paper.
This is a timely thread for me. I'm finishing a GSM-1 at the moment. My first attempt was with Feast Watson Prooftint in mahogany with a black burst. This was after applying Ebony Timbermate, but no sanding sealer.
Attachment 36889
The timber took up the stain very unevenly, and it didn't look good, as much as I tried to like it. So I sanded it back, and this time applied sanding sealer before the stain. It's not exactly like for like, as I've decided to go with a natural black burst rather than mahogany. Here it is after the sealer was applied and sanded back.
Attachment 36890
And here it is after the black burst.
Attachment 36891
The sealer went on easily, and sanded back to a very smooth finish. It made applying the stain much easier and more consistent.
Glad that worked.
I think the natural timber burst is the best & will be even better once the hardware, knobs etc are installed.
Thanks Cliff. Yes, I'm much happier with it now. The black burst isn't perfect, but I think it'll look fine once the build's finished. I did do a mock build with hardware after I'd finished the stain and put a coat of oil on, just to get an impression of what it'll look like when done, and I think it's going to look great. Somewhat different to what I initially had in mind, but I'm getting used to guitars letting me know how they want t be finished ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers