First Build ES-1

Gaday All
Started looking over the kit, checked inventory and hardware is Ok all seems to be there.
Body looks Ok no majors the neck is good happy to say. The mock build has shown there will be
some hurdles to get Bill up to be a player though (yep this ones called Bill). Two things I can see
most notably will be the intonation cannot be achieved with the current neck to bridge position.
The position needs shortening by around 4 mm looks possible I've about that distance to move
the neck in before the finger board comes into contact with the pickup mounting ring. So some
wood working required to correct that and I guess I'll need to make sure the neck angle doesn't throw
things out when I do that adjustment. The other hurdle is the bridge and tail piece pins are a sloppy
fit in the mounting holes -Holes are 12mm/ OD of pins is 11.9 aprox. no chance of being usable
without some mods to something here. First thoughts is to find another Tun-o-matic with larger
diameter body inserts to suit the 12mm hole any suggestions would be welcome, will have to search
the webs. Would prefer this work around rather than using the under size part, unless there's a easy
option anyone's worked out my guess is this isn't a unique case.
The flame looks good at the center of the body, some heavy scratches near the upper bout that will
challenge me against the thickness of the thin veneer, so might be able to get a nice finish if I get
the process right... time will tell!! There are glue spots to clean up and some filling around the binding
in places I'd like to work. But all the ascetics are secondary to getting 'Bill' up to being a player
first and foremost... Let the fun begin!!!:cool:

Just make sure you double, triple and quadruple check the scale length before you make any alterations. 4mm seems a lot for a kit to be out. Possibly the jig slipped in the factory.

Bursting ‘Bill’ with a black may be an option to hide any damage at the upper bout if you sand through the veneer trying to remove scratches.

All set to go. Have fun with 'Bill'.

Yes Darkmark Black paint is the last resort when all else fails I'm sure a company or two have used Black paint to hide
things before today !! BB's beloved Lucille was a stunner, there's always that route...

http://i.imgur.com/E0dNk3zl.jpg
Intonation issue here
http://i.imgur.com/scTiMKZl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9w4VBV6l.jpg
Not sure to fill this or laminate under the heal
http://i.imgur.com/c2tgsQ5l.jpg happy with the fit
http://i.imgur.com/Dp4tWnJl.jpg action will be good
http://i.imgur.com/YouoGzsl.jpginteresting grain
http://i.imgur.com/QiFO6YYl.jpglooks good just a bit of filler in a few spots around the edges
http://i.imgur.com/25RdGYxl.jpgthe neck is clean, feels good

managed to clean up some glue and fill this weekend small steps but onward !!

Looks like the neck is seated as far in as possible? 313mm to crown of 12th fret is pretty close as optimum is 314.33 mm.

As for the bridge, have you flipped it around so that screws are facing the nut as that is how a lot of them are setup, pretty dumb as it makes saddle adjustment harder but just seems to be how they are done.

When flipped, if inner nut to top of high E saddle is still more like 631 mm than the required 628.65 mm that would indicate bridge posts have been drilled too far south, thus requiring dowel and re-drilling to bring things forward the required distance.

EDIT: For gap under neck heel maybe natural timber mate might work if you plan to stain, not so good if looking to spray a solid colour but a filler would be the easiest solution.

Hi All
I have been experimenting with water based dies on some maple and am wondering how far I can
take the process on the thin veneer. My concern is that the veneer may lift if the surface becomes too saturated.
Do I wait for each application to dry before adding another coat to the surface to be safe or is there room for blending
another coat to a wet coat before it dries.

I always use a rag rolled into a ball and give it a squeeze to remove any excess before applying any stain. Seems to work as I haven't had a problem doing my stains. It also tends to equalize the amount of dye being applied. It's better to add little by little than doing it all at once. Check out my TL1-Q and ES330 tribute.

Thanks for the tip ILR going out to give it a go now. Thanks for steering me onto those two beauties of yours this forum has too much depth to find them all ,that ES330 tribute is a inspiring build. Cheers

A pleasure mate. We are all here to help. I found that if I do the diluted black stain first it helps to find any glue spots (which can be removed with Goof Off), then after I remove the glue, I can sand and redo the black to even the coat before I do the colour stain. Saves time and colour matching is better.

Remember: There is never a dumb question.

The hot days this weekend have helped lay down some colour nearly happy with where its at. Have a question that''s been in the back of my head though can too much colour sit on the surface and look great only to smear when applying a finish ? I'd like to use a finishing oil over the die colour rather than a lacquer.

Some people have found this to be the case. But I think it depends which combination of stain and top coat you use. If the oil acts as a thinner for the colour then it could well draw the stain out and smear it. Sometimes its best to try it out on scrap wood first.

I give it plenty of time to dry then give it a light wipe with a slightly damp rag. I've found that there is some residue that comes off with the first coat of oil but not enough to affect the final colour.
If you are doing a blue colour, DO NOT use Tru Oil!!! It will yellow over time and turn your lovely blue to a crappy green. Happened with my Tele. Use an acrylic clear coat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fretworn

Some people have found this to be the case. But I think it depends which combination of stain and top coat you use. If the oil acts as a thinner for the colour then it could well draw the stain out and smear it. Sometimes its best to try it out on scrap wood first.

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Thanks for the feedback Fretworn I've used water based stain not oil or spirit, would that make it neutral to thinning after the water has evaporated ? Will experiment, have a few test pieces to wok on.Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ILRGuitars

I give it plenty of time to dry then give it a light wipe with a slightly damp rag. I've found that there is some residue that comes off with the first coat of oil but not enough to affect the final colour.
If you are doing a blue colour, DO NOT use Tru Oil!!! It will yellow over time and turn your lovely blue to a crappy green. Happened with my Tele. Use an acrylic clear coat.

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Thanks ILRGuitars drying between coats makes sense ,and no its not Blue so safe with that. Is the green appearance because the oil has amber tint to it ,the yellow mixing with blue and it turn going green as the oil yellows more in time or just a tru oil thing ? If so are there other oils that can spoil a blue finish over the long term?

From reading this forum and searching the web using a oil finish seems to be my best bet at this stage to possibly achieve a good finish. I've very little spray gun experience or even equipment at this point ,but something to work toward for sure. My concern was that the oil might lift some colour out of or off the grain and give blotchy appearance while rubbing the oil into the wood. The first coat dried would help seal it in then ? I've gone for a burst which took a number of colour applications to get somewhere in the ball park. So would starting on the lightest coloured area and working out towards the darker edges and changing the cloth, be the approach ?

Apologies for all the questions, think I'd better just get out and put the scrap to the test ?

Cheers

I think you just answered your own questions. Using a scrap piece will help you test the stain and your own technique. From memory, on the ES, I think I started from the inside to the outer edges. That also would help prevent runs down the side.

A little residual colour will always come off on the first coat but I've had nothing to worry about. Just make sure your coats are even before you start to oil. A thicker first coat won't hurt either as it will soak in more than following coats. The trick to colour and oil coats is getting them even.

Despite what the bottle says, Tru Oil goes amber over time. So you are right, blue and yellow equals green. I haven't use other oil so I'm not sure.