Printable View
Hi all,
First ever PBG build (or any for that matter)! Have already run into a few issues, hoping to get some help from the kind people in this forum with their wealth of knowledge.
Running with stock electronics at the moment, if I feel everything is going well at the end I may upgrade to known quality components (thornbuckers etc), but only if it's worth it.
Pictures are all taken with my iphone 6s. I am definitely not a photographer...
First problem enountered. Unfortunately it seems that someone in the factory forgot to clean their gloves and marked blue paint/dye all over the maple veneer on the body (pictured). I originally planned to use butterscotch dingotone but had to return it after seeing these marks. I'm now spraying it an off white colour (PPG acrylic lacquer) so unforuntely don't get to see the nice flame maple pattern.
https://i.imgur.com/i6ZRe4O.png
Second problem encountered. Checking the neck fit, rough action guide etc and measured the scale. Seems that Its the same distance from fret side of the nut to middle 12th fret, to middle 12th fret to the very, very front of the bridge. As in screwed forward as far as it can go and its still half a mm longer, and thats measuring to the shorter side. I realise that the bridge to 12th fret should be a bit longer, but i think its off by a mm or 2. Any thoughts?
https://i.imgur.com/w7pyIPj.jpg - bridge pushed forwards as far as it can go
https://imgur.com/SfNbt9v.jpg - bridge to 12th fret (313mm)
https://imgur.com/yk4Z4RH.jpg - 12th fret to nut (312.5mm)
Third problem encountered. Seems that my truss rod is sticking too far out of the slot. Cant place the nut on flat because the middle hits the truss rod. I remember when I first checked the neck the rod was lose and could slide out, now it can't be budged. Might have to try push it in somehow?
https://imgur.com/9Uclg6c.jpg
https://imgur.com/6AZ5EB9.jpg
https://imgur.com/xpWWDNx.jpg
I would just notch out the bottom of the nut like some fenders have to give some clearance.
With the scale length, can you move the neck a mm or two further into the pocket if that's worrying you? Really the only string likely to be the stated scale length is the high e, and all others will need to be slightly longer for good intonation. Bugger about the finger prints on the quilt.
Stiryx before you cover up the Veneer, is it definitely dye/paint? I've seen a number of guys on here saying that a bit of glue has shown through at times because the Veneer is so thin. Might be worth trying to clean it up? Can't remember what product others have used. Think it's called Goof Off.
I was thinking that, its just that I remember the truss rod literally slipping out when i first looked at the neck. Wasn't sure if it was going to give me problems later down the track.
Unfortunately I have already sanded the neck joint back as far as I'm willing to give me more room, the further you go in the looser the join gets and its already not real tight. I don't see the point in building a guitar that isn't going to tune properly, I'm thinking I may need to dowel and redrill the bridge holes. Has anyone ever had this problem with a PBG guitar?
It's definitely paint unfortunately, I emailed Adam and he was kind enough to confirm this and offer me a 10% refund because of the deformity and having to change my plans.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
Ah that's a shame. You could try bleaching, I've seen some stuff on the internet about that and from what I understand it shouldn't really discolour the wood but full disclosure I've never bleached wood myself so I'm not sure what the outcome would be. If you do attempt that I'd use a self neutralising product to minimise the chance of issues with compatibility with other products.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiryx
Rather than measuring nut to 12th and 12th to bridge - what is the overall measurement from nut to bridge?
I'm yet to see a kit that has the wrong scale length, but that doesn't mean it isn't out. Can you also show a pic looking straight on with the neck in the pocket just to confirm that's all correct? From time to time there is a necessity to use a small shim to get the neck fit tight.
Neck fit is amazing Sonic, I cleaned that up the other day and its sitting flush.
https://i.imgur.com/jFkXkJa.jpg
Unfortunately I have bad new for myself, without measuring the holes are definitely drilled wrong. The bridge won't fit on the pegs when they are hammered in the entire way! If you take them out and put them on a big angle you can force it on, but it isn't practical.
https://i.imgur.com/BZ7uQtf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/COBBsPM.jpg
I am 100% going to have to dowel and drill now, something I really didn't want to do. To add to injury the nut is chipped very badly and is going to require replacing, and this project is quickly becoming 1. very costly replacing parts and 2. getting out of my skill level.
Really starting to wonder if its going to be cheaper/easier/better end product to buy a second hand epiphone dot and repaint/replace with what I'm after.
I don't know the kit and someone who has done one maybe able to shed more light but is one of the pegs a different length to the other? I can't see why they would be, that wouldn't make sense but that's what it kind of looks like in the photo. If they are different have you tried swapping them to the opposite holes?
Hey mate, the image shows the pegs being different lengths because thats the only way to get the bridge on. The holes are about 3mm too close together, aka a big distance for something with such a tight fit. Definitely going to be doweling and re-drilling the holes now.
Oh dear, some bad luck here. I'd consider contacting Adam and letting him know.
It does seem that dowelling and redrilling will solve both of the main issues you have.
Have you tried to tighten the truss rod a little to make sure it is fully seated? On my AG kit the truss rod slid out like that but was fine when screwed in
The truss rod came with a huge back bow in it and that's when it was loose (that's weird right?). It was only when I straightened the neck to allow me to level the frets that it has become tight inside.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
No use contacting Adam I don't think, this is just the problems with buying a left hand kit I guess, they don't make many so the QA isn't as high as the right handed versions.
As I said above though, this is quickly getting out of my skill level to fix the problems. I was expecting to take it to a luthier to set up the intonation and all that, not sure I will get that far haha.
I think this is a full money-back job. You had the paint issue (which has been covered), the truss-rod installation is wrong, and you shouldn't have to dowel and re-drill holes, especially on a veneer top. Have you tried fitting the stop piece inserts to see if that fits?
A 335-shape leftie doesn't really differ that much from a r/h version. The neck should be the same apart from a l/h nut, the body is symmetrical so it's only the hardware, control and wire access holes that require drilling differently. The bridge hole issue may be down to something basically simple like changing hardware supplier, with the new bridge having holes closer together and not updating their drilling jig to suit, but it's probably down to either the wrong template or sloppy drilling.
Definitely contact Adam.
Have sent Adam an email with your advice thanks Simon. What you say about the body makes a lot of sense, seems that they have just used the wrong template or hand drilled holes out of allignment. The B tuner peg hole on the neck is missdrilled by a few mm but that should be a non-issue to fix hopefully.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I have the exact same problem and was thinking exact same solution...dowl and re-drill ... how'd you go with this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiryx