Is it just my TL1 kit, or are these not drilled to the same specifications as all other Telecasters and clones?
https://s19.postimg.cc/62znu0qzn/20180621_172139_1.jpg
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Is it just my TL1 kit, or are these not drilled to the same specifications as all other Telecasters and clones?
https://s19.postimg.cc/62znu0qzn/20180621_172139_1.jpg
Nah, it’s not just you mine were similar. Some people plug and redrill the holes, but I took the risk and the screws still went in fine.
My TL was similar, it’s a common occurrence.
My kits have always been fine, I'd plug and redrill them.
How do you plug them? I have a container of wood tone putty here do I simply fill the holes?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Hmm, no, as the putty won't take a drill hole without flaking. Ideally you would use a timber dowel of the correct diameter. I'd stick it in with some PVA glue and let it go hard overnight then redrill them.
If you don't have a dowel (which I don't just hanging around) I'd probably be too impatient and tight to wait to go and get some, so I'd chisel off some offcuts of timber of the same colour down to the right diameter ish so they fit tightly in the hole, and press them in along with the pva. Might take a few bits to fill the holes up, and then leave a bit sticking out the top to cut back and sand flat using your filler if needed. You won't see the repair under the plate anyway, it just wants to be strong.
But that's just me... I'm sure there's probably tidier ways of doing it!
if You can find appropriately sized dowel, plug them with those and some tite bond, else drill them out t a regular dowel size(5 or 6mm) plug it with the same method then let glue set. Trim to body level re Mark and redrill.
Nice idea re enlarging to fit the dowel you might have! Didn't think of that...Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Can pay to do it that way, the glue itself sets up stronger than the wood and you are only really putting in a clearance hole. It also gives you a wider target to mark and redrill. the plate and the neck are taking the bulk of the strain at any rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Thanks guys! I might go with the "enlarge the hole to suit the dowel" idea.
The holes in the body should be just wide enough to let the screws pass through without catching at all. If not, they need enlarging.
For the tightest neck to body fit, the screws should only actually screw into the neck. If they are screwing into the body and neck, there's no guarantee that when the screws are tight against the body, that the neck is pulled down as tight as it can be. So the holes in the body there are primarily there for location. You don't want the holes too big, as that allows the neck to shift if it gets knocked; just big enough for the screws to slide through snugly.