Blackwood Tec fingerboards

I'm really not that enamoured with these Blackwood Tec fingerboards. I'm starting to see small splits open up in some areas on the ESB-4 neck. I know we've seen a few necks on here with big splits in the board. It's also hard to get them feeling anything like as nice as a rosewood neck. I've sanded them down and got them smooth, but then the surface breaks up again and feels 'un-smooth' (rough would be too harsh a word).

The construction of them isn't anything like as nice as those other samples of a manufactured wood from maybe a year ago. The colour is also on the grey side. I've tried using lemon oil on them which gives a better colour, but the oil's gone within a very short time.

I'm really not sure that this particular composite board material is the right one to use.

It's a shame really, because I prefer the look of "rosewood" fingerboards. But I think I'll probably lean towards maple boards going forward unless another alternative dark, slab fingerboard can be found. The ES-5V I'm making as a present has the blackwood board and I'm already rueing the final set up of the neck. Perhaps we need to look at ways of sealing, rather than oiling the fingerboards?

Hmmm, is that what I've got on my ES-5V? It just says 'rosewood' on the description. Mind you, I ruined mine with the masking tape debacle so I don't think I can use this as my excuse.

There's always ebony...

All this talk of blackwood fingerboards on ES-5Vs has me worried. I ordered one nearly a year ago before this was a thing, and it was definitely listed as rosewood. Since then my kit was stolen during the break-in and a replacement kit is currently on its way to me. Fingers crossed I don't have to deal with that.

Rickenbacker seal their 'Rosewood' boards which these days is probably Bubinga.

Unless Chinese kit factories can supply genuine ebony it sounds like the better option might be maple which you can always tint or stain for a darker appearance if desired or just leave natural and let it go feral.

Rickenbacker have lacquered their rosewood boards for ages.

I forgot to mention those people whose Blackwood boards had lumps pulled off them with lo-tack masking tape. I don't mind synthetic/composite boards, but they need to do the job properly and whatever these factories is using seems to be rather below par.

We did send some feedback a few months ago, but more about the blemishes we were seeing on some of the Blackwood fretboards.

If the consensus is that the Blackwood is no good, then we need to explore other options; although options are limited.

We are certainly ordering more Ebony and Maple fretboards now and keeping the Blackwood to a minimum. Ebony doesn't suit every guitar and it does add a bit to the cost.

I have asked the factory if they are exploring any other fretboard options, like Bubinga. Will advise their response.

Thanks Adam. I forgot to mention those people who've had bits of the board pull out when just using low-tack masking tape on it. The idea is fine, but the execution seems a bit patchy. Maybe a stronger/different resin is required? If ebony is an option, is it possible to add it to the kit options list? Whilst fully-black ebony won't suit all rosewood style necks, the lighter figured ebony (which I believe is what the factories use) looks very much like figured rosewood, but with a lovely smooth surface. I'd be happy to pay extra for an ebony board option - though I know you want to keep the basic kit price down as much as possible. I expect that the CITES changes have made the alternative rosewood-type woods more popular and maybe in shorter supply as a result, as well as driving up their price.

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Originally Posted by adam

We did send some feedback a few months ago, but more about the blemishes we were seeing on some of the Blackwood fretboards.

If the consensus is that the Blackwood is no good, then we need to explore other options; although options are limited.

We are certainly ordering more Ebony and Maple fretboards now and keeping the Blackwood to a minimum. Ebony doesn't suit every guitar and it does add a bit to the cost.

I have asked the factory if they are exploring any other fretboard options, like Bubinga. Will advise their response.

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What about Pau Ferro Fender is using it on most of their Squire guitars?

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I'm really not that enamoured with these Blackwood Tec fingerboards. I'm starting to see small splits open up in some areas on the ESB-4 neck. I know we've seen a few necks on here with big splits in the board. It's also hard to get them feeling anything like as nice as a rosewood neck. I've sanded them down and got them smooth, but then the surface breaks up again and feels 'un-smooth' (rough would be too harsh a word).

The construction of them isn't anything like as nice as those other samples of a manufactured wood from maybe a year ago. The colour is also on the grey side. I've tried using lemon oil on them which gives a better colour, but the oil's gone within a very short time.

I'm really not sure that this particular composite board material is the right one to use.

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The neck and its Blackwood Tek fingerboard was of pretty low quality on the kit I received. Which is a shame because the idea of using sustainable engineered woods as substitutes for endangered species is a good one and given the CITES regulations unavoidable. I did wonder if there are different grades of the Blackwood Tek product. I have a Harley Benton guitar with a Roseacre / dyed and baked maple fretboard which isn't too bad and that might be a better alternative.

The fretboard on my Pit Bull neck was very rough surfaced and looked as though it had had some cracks that had been filled. On any guitar neck that has been fretted you really want the fretboard surface to be delivered finish sanded to a very smooth surface because it is very difficult to improve the finish with the frets in the way.

I did manage some improvement by giving the fretboard a couple of coats of tru oil and then smoothing with 0000 wire wool. The rest of the neck was also very roughly sanded with some very deep scratches along the side of the heel which I did not want to sand too heavily as I wanted to retain a tight fit in the neck pocket.

BTW - I'm not too happy that my browser warns me this forum is not secure / not using https.

Pretty sure the 'unsecure' note is because it's such an old forum format.

I have only had a very limited exposure to the Blackwood Tek - it was on an RCM kit that I never went ahead with. I have to say that it didn't seem very nice. It's was flaky and just looked fake, combined with other peoples experiences I'm kinda glad I didn't mess around with it. I was just going to seal it anyway. I'll be sticking with maple and staining if required.

On the topic of synthetic timber boards, my Hagstrom uses one - a product they call 'Resinator'. It's really really good to play on, fantastic feel, very smooth and looks great. So it's absolutely possible to do it well, I guess the PBG suppliers haven't quite worked out the best recipe for it yet.

Hi guys, it is three years after the last post on Blackwood. I just ordered a kit that most likely will have one, kit: sccm1q.

I was unaware of this issue. Can anyone tell me if the supplied Blackwood fingerboard of the kits have improved?

Cheers

No, is the simple answer.

Not all of them have flakey fibres. Some of them have been trouble-free. Quite a chance of having issues though.

The CITES changes means that proper rosewood boards should be the norm again, so there’s no need to pick an engineered board. In some instances it may be that the kit description hasn’t been fully updated. I’ve seen one current one for the DMS-1 where the description offers maple or rosewood boards and the body material has changed to mahogany, not ash as the picture shows, but the options tick list still lists blackwood, not rosewood.

You’d really have to email PBG for confirmation.

Thank you for your prompt reply Simon, will do and report back.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

the body material has changed to mahogany, not ash as the picture shows,

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I wouldn't count on that. My YB-4 I custom orderd with a Mahogany body. Meranti is *not* Mahogany! I think you have to take the materials listing with a pinch of salt

Unless they give the exact wood species and ideally the Latin name for it, you are always open to the wide variety of timber types that make up the generic families of woods used in guitar construction, and local wood marketing descriptions can further lead to misunderstandings.

Meranti isn't mahogany, but it's closer to mahogany in looks and properties than say ash or maple. There are also several varieties of meranti, and dark red meranti is often sold as 'Philippines mahogany', which leads people astray if they don't check further.

Mahoganys, near-mahoganys and pseudo-mahoganys covered here: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-a...s-the-lowdown/

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Originally Posted by RocknRolf

Hi guys, it is three years after the last post on Blackwood. I just ordered a kit that most likely will have one, kit: sccm1q.

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I can't find a kit with that reference. Did you mean this one, DSCM-1Q? https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...-maple-veneer/

That's listed as having a blackwood fretboard.

There may be the option of going custom and getting a rosewood fretboard fitted, though that will obviously add a delay.

Yes Simon it is the DSCM-1Q, the name was changed sometime last year.

I had ordered a custom kit in December (since I am a lefty). Before ordering, I read into the different fretboards. People were not unhappy about the blackwood fretboards for as far as I read (this was not from kit guitars), and neither did I read any complaints going through the single cut build dairy's. So I thought, I wouldn't mind any fretboard in particular, as I didn't know more about them.

As suggested, I have asked Pitbull regarding my kit and you were right, the wording on the website was wrong. The kit has a rosewood fretboard and they have changed the website. Ben said "The only kits our factories are making with blackwood fretboards at the moment are the 5 and 6-string bass kits."

I couldn't be more happy with this after reading this thread. So I guess, thanks for creating this thread and your response to someone's question last week that triggered me to search for more info on the blackwood.

@RnR - I got to this thread late so when I checked the listing of the DSCM-1Q, it specified rosewood and had me scratching my head...

You're backstory there explains it all! And yes, a good result!

Now get building!

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Originally Posted by McCreed

@RnR - I got to this thread late so when I checked the listing of the DSCM-1Q, it specified rosewood and had me scratching my head...

You're backstory there explains it all! And yes, a good result!

Now get building!

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Sorry for the confusion, I decided to hold off on replying till I had more info from pitbull.

"Now get building!" - more planning actually, the kit isn't expected until March, Exciting!!
Have got the Tonerider AC2's ready to go, ordering dyes this week, and have to do some more research on poly finishes.

Thanks again

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Originally Posted by RocknRolf

Sorry for the confusion, I decided to hold off on replying till I had more info from pitbull.

"Now get building!" - more planning actually, the kit isn't expected until March, Exciting!!
Have got the Tonerider AC2's ready to go, ordering dyes this week, and have to do some more research on poly finishes.

Thanks again

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Ah, I see. I thought you already had received it. Hopefully it arrives with little to no issues.

I’d still have a big bottle of Goof-Off and soft wire brush to hand.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I’d still have a big bottle of Goof-Off and soft wire brush to hand.

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For that fretboard or are you referring to the veneer on that 1q?

Veneer. None of the veneered kits seems to come without them these days, even ones with no binding.

Yes noted and remember that of my tla-1f.